How to make Perfectly Horizontal Undercuts and Backcuts?

rfwoody

Treehouser
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Hello,

In felling... Are there any good tricks or techniques for getting perfectly level/horizontal undercuts and backcuts ?
Especially when the bar is 3/4 (or so) of the tree width?
For example: tree width is 18" using 16" bar .... or tree width is 30" using 25" bar
... or for that matter, even if the bar is long enough to go through the tree.

I can't seem to eyeball my bar perfectly level, but often wind up with slightly slanting undercuts and backcuts.
In contrast, for example, if you watch August Hunicke make his cuts, his bar is *perfectly* level on the backcut and undercut and it also shows in the stump.
I have considered using small level (e.g. bulls eye level) on the bar of my saw to get my bar oriented level on both "slant" and "pitch" axis.

Does anyone have any good techniques for getting the bar level other than just pure practice and experience?

Thanks,

Robert
 
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  • #4
... ha, it so happens I'm partially answering my own question... I just got to page 282 of "The Fundamentals of General Tree Work" by G.F. Beranek and he mentions just this thing... they are the Tilt axis and the Roll axis. From page 282 "If the roll axis is level and the tilt axis is level also, you have a truly straight and level cut across a stump. Any change in either axis will result in an unlevel stump" -- Mr. Beranek also mentions using a magnetic level on the bar.
Well, as I continue reading, I may get some more insight into my question.
Nevertheless.... does anyone out there (in here) have any other suggestions on how to achieve perfectly level cuts?
Thanks a lot for reading this and any help.
Robert
 
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  • #7
Yes, I believe a small mounted bulleye level could help a relative novice like me.
In the mean time I will proceed with determination to get the cuts perfectly level.
Thanks!
 
I've never worried about it that much. As long as the notch and back cut match up as they should then it won't matter. I usually go square with the trunk rather than level with the earth. And the stump cut is always a separate cut for me, I'm not going to work that hard trying to make my notch and back cut within 2" of the ground.
 
Someone here a while back said something along the lines of visualizing balancing a ball bearing on the bar to help get it level... that may help, it's stuck in my memory for a while now.


I'm not terribly worried about making sure it's dead horizontal; also, the floor/back cut should usually be perpendicular to the trunk/wood fiber, not perpendicular to gravity.
 
Start your cut standing back from the tree more, cutting with the tip/ far end of the bar, if it helps you see better. Once started, stand back and check, then cut as usual.

Are you consistent, but inaccurate (e.g. always tip down)?
 
There is a tendency when working with a long (heavy) bar to let the tip drop a bit. SO just before hitting the gas I'll look at the tip and bring it UP to level.... I recall that August, as many west coast fallers, mostly cuts humboldts. It's a lot easier to get the notch level when using the open face. IMO.. maybe its just a muscle memory thing though. As said above, you gotta make sawdust to get good. Focussed intention helps.

I personally HATE a funny angled notch, especially on tight drops. Still happens to me once in a while, especially when cutting above waist level. When I stand back and look a crooked notch I can get hard on myself with self talk like.. "that's the ugliest notch I've ever seen.. How did you frig that up??? You ought be a lot better than that by now" etc.. The I gotta use up valuable decision making energy deciding whether or not to take the time to "fix it"...Crooked notches definitely can make the fall do funny things... I've thought about using to my advantage but have yet to fully understand and master the "technique"
 
From the thread cited by Burnham above:
For me the main thing is feeling the level of the saw in the weight on the handlebars and the pistol grip. In other words, if the saw is off level, it requires a different holding force in each hand to hold it that way, as opposed to the feeling of level which with practice becomes ingrained in muscle memory. It's more difficult standing in awkward positions, and if it's a critical cut on a big tree by all means step back a bit a look at it.

I think that's excellent advice... I found I was cutting crooked notches one day when I was borrowing some orange saws... just not used to the weight and feel (balance) of the saw..
 
A lot of guys will sight down their face cut, aligning the bar before starting the back cut. You can also cut mark your far corner so you have something to align with on the working side.
 
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  • #19
Thanks everyone for all the advice and welcomes!
I don't know how to respond to each individual person because all my replies go to the bottom of the thread.
But thanks for all your help!
Robert.
 
I feel Logging experience is a huge benefit , socking falling cuts into Tree after Tree and after awhile the eye hand thing gets dialed.
 
Yep.
Practice is the thing, plus avoiding any sloppyness in the way you work.
Having someone whip on you when you do it wrong works well, too.

Our new apprentice got to fall some 350 larch trees in a day .
Just row felling for a pulp chipper.
I pushed them over with a 15 foot pole with an iron tip, we have made for that.
I was on him the whole day about level cuts, stump height, evenness of hinge or the opposite, when that was called for.
When we quit, he was totally used up, just plain wore out.
Then I took him back and showed him the first stump of the day.
He couldn't believe how much he had improved.
 
There isn't much to it .Walk the bar around,put a cut vertical where you want the wedge to end on both sides,cut the felling cut .Come up about 2" inches in back make the drop cut ..It will pretty much follow the hinge .It will fall over weather it's level or not .Just don't let it fall on you .A wedge or two might help at times .
 
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