Where's a good deal on Stihl chains, and can soft chains be tempered?

I guess part of the question is, how many loops have you to make from the roll to pay the breaker/spinner?

It's been a long time but I think I paid about $75 for the breaker and another $75 for the spinner. So $150 for the setup, divided by the $3 per loop you pay to have someone else spin your chains. About 50 chains and it's paid for.

But the big savings is not walking into the candy store every couple weeks and buying another $20-$50 worth of stuff whenever you go in to buy chains. I go to the Stihl dealer when I need parts or a new saw, that's it.
 
The convenience is a good point, but I don't think you save much on reels over buying loops when purchasing Oregon or Woodsman pro chain from Bailey's. I like making my own loops though, but I often spin them too tight. I covet a reel of Stihl chain, but I'm too cheap to buy one.
 
I just use oregon lgx/jgx on everything but my tophandle. Stihl chain is way more expensive, and honestly how long does it take to touch up a chain. I can do one in as much time as it takes to change one. A rock or nail is gonna be an issue no matter the brand.
 
Like Willie said, it doesn't take much to make your own chains.

All I've ever used was a bench grinder to break the chain and a ball peen hammer to peen the rivets. It only takes a few minutes.
 
If I recall I think I paid about 20 bucks off e bay for my Oregon spinner .I use a die grinder on the rivets .I don't have a little anvil for 3/8" pico just 3/8 standard and .404 .Mainly I just use the spinner to repair chains ,some I've screwed up and the Sthl chains I get from my buddy Toms tool boxes on his bucket truck that they screwed up .

I made a set of concave punches from grade 8 bolts that do a good job of peening also .Little pico I might add is somewhat of a pain in the butt because it is so small .
I might add also on that hard Stihl chain you might have better luck with a less aggressive file .It's so damned hard it will peel the teeth off an Oregon brand file .I got a couple dozen from Baileys but I can't remember the name of them .
 
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  • #31
I use Oregon files on all chains since I can find a good deal on a dozen box of them. I'll use definitely two new files on a 20" stihl chain that hits rock and needs 10-15 strokes of the file to get back to good material. I do it to maintain even sharpening, and it does eat up half the life of each file. I put them back in the box the other end up and will get back to them when I make it through the rest. I'm pretty quick at swapping chains since I do it so much, I do it to use the big bar for big wood only, then back to the little one to not wear out the big unnecessarily, or to switch chains for speed cutting or safe plunge cutting. It takes me a very long time to file even when I go fast compared to the time it takes to swap a chain. I don't go through chains fast enough to even think ahead by 10 chains let alone 50.

I asked Frawley's saw shop about carrying Stihl chain, they said they'd look into it, so hopefully good deals come of that.
 
Baileys 10 chains for $100 sales
My bud told me sometimes they throw a bar in also.I always seem to miss that deal.
Woodland pro is the name on the boxes.
Not the best but they get the job done.
My local stilh dealer its like $25 a piece for the top handle saw chains.
 
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  • #35
The unpopular chains seem to be cheapest. Staying sharp much longer than any other chain at a good price is all I want, so I figure this Stihl RSLFK chain is a good way to go especially if round filing it will help it stay sharp longer. http://www.ebay.com/itm/271645103657 It's a pretty good price as you buy more and save a little on shipping. One would think you'd then get 5-10% off by reordering from him off ebay once you have his contact info from the first buy, so win-win, and it keeps getting better. This way is cheaper than ordering a 25ft roll from bailey's which was a pretty good price too, but I don't think they sell the Klassic or whatever it is called (non oilomatic).
 
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