Where's a good deal on Stihl chains, and can soft chains be tempered?

Nutball

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I like to keep extra chains available, so I always have a sharp one if another goes dull, and so I don't have to spend time sharpening on the job. Also if I don't have time to sharpen at home before working again, I'll still have extras. What got me in search of more chains now is how although loggerchain.com has great deals on Oregon chain, and Oregon seems to stay sharper for longer than it used to, just recently I sharpened one on the job then almost finished 2 cuts in a 40" maple when it went very dull. Luckily I had a stihl chain still sharp enough to fell the tree, but it isn't a skip chain which I want for faster sharpening, and at the time I couldn't find any stihl skip chains in the size I needed, not to mention the very expensive price.

Anyway, I was wondering if Oregon chains, and even cheaper and softer ones could be easily tempered with good results?

Also, knowing some of you make your own loops, or might know who offers good prices on custom loops, I'm looking for Stihl RSF 3/8 .050: two 105dl and two 135dl for $150 shipped. From what I've seen on ebay and knowing how ebay charges a lot of fees, this should be a good reasonable offer at least to a business since they get their chains cheaper.
 
I just bought a power match Oregon 28 inch bar and chain for 90 from bailey's

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I thought I paid about $300 for a reel of 100'of Stihl chainsaw from the dealer, "custom" spin to order, included.
 
I need to break down and buy/create the make my own chain station. Waaaaay cheaper by the roll.

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Ask the dealer for a price. Hard to beat free spinning. I've always run Stihl. At State Parks, softer Oregon... Lots and lots of nails.
 
I thought I paid about $300 for a reel of 100'of Stihl chainsaw from the dealer, "custom" spin to order, included.

Holy cow that's a bargain! Unless you're mistaken, which I think is likely. Six or eight years ago GASoline71 Gary was picking up rolls for me at one of those PNW logging supply houses and shipping it to me UPS. At that time he was paying about $300 per roll plus tax so it was about $400 for me by the time I paid UPS and a few dollars for Gary's time. My local dealers all want full retail prices which are almost the same as buying loops. I finally found a dealer willing to sell me Stihl chain at somewhat reasonable prices but it's still around $400 per roll, more for the 33RSF.

I prefer spinning my own loops. I always have chain and I can keep a couple extra loops on the truck at all times. No need to stop by the saw shop once a week and spend money because you ALWAYS end up buying more stuff than what was on your list.

Same theory in buying water and Gatorade at the grocery store and packing a cooler every day. No need to stop at the 7-11 every day for drinks and end up spending $5-10 every time you walk in the door.
 
I dont mind using softer (cheaper) chain, theres usually a stump to be cut most days so its gonna need a sharpening regardless. Different story if there's just clean wood to be cut all day.
 
Possibly I'll remembering $300 per roll of Oregon, at Madsen's, from several years ago.




When I was a boy, bread was a nickel.:lol:
 
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  • #12
I got an old chinese junk chain I might try hardening, it is so soft you can't file it, the file just glides over the teeth sculpting them like clay, so there's a big curved lip bent over the cutting edge. I just don't know if Oregon chain could be made harder than it is, or if it softens as it gets used. I'll use softer chain if there's clean wood to be cut, but definitely not for a stump.
 
A few years back Baileys had loops of their"house brand" which was Carlton on sale for about 10 dollars for a 72 driver loop .I bought 5 and it was and is the worst stuff I ever used .Stihl chain is probably the best stuff for longevity but it's not immune to rocks metal etc .The again being Stihl it's a dealer only type of thing .
Other than one 24" loop of .404 by .063 loop for one of my antiques the only stuff I've bought were loops for my two Stihl 200T trim sales .They are around 20 bucks for 14" loop and due to the fact I don't use the little saws professionally they last me a good long while .
It's been so long since I've bought any chain that I have no idea these days what the prices are .
 
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  • #14
I know Bailey's has been off of my list of places to buy from unless I can't find something anywhere else because they are always more expensive. Their loops are a good bit more than some ebay sellers who sell at $0.30-0.33 per DL, and that's with ebay fees and paypal fees. Bailey's didn't have my size, their custom loops are $0.43/DL, their 100ft is about $0.31 before shipping and buying loop making tools. I'm sure a dealer could still make plenty of money not selling on ebay at $0.30/DL from multi chain orders.
 
Woodland Pro, from Bailey's is Carlton in a different box. It's perfectly serviceable. I've got a 300' roll I picked up last year.

Learn to roll your own. It's not in any way difficult. Hardest part is counting out the drive links.
 
I doubt this is worth any attempt. My understanding is the tooth has a chrome coating on the outside to hold the edge while the main part of the tooth is soft enough for a file to cut. I think you'd just either make it unfileable or brittle.
 
Woodland Pro, from Bailey's is Carlton in a different box. It's perfectly serviceable. I've got a 300' roll I picked up last year.

Learn to roll your own. It's not in any way difficult. Hardest part is counting out the drive links.

Buy the bench top sticker made for this, or make your own template.

It's not hard to learn, but it is a skill. Not too much, not to little, spin down your rivets just right, and be willing to pop out an over spun rivet and do it again.

Pretty easy.
 
Ain't THAT the truth!




I can even frig it up using that measuring chart...
I have my break mounted permanently and a finish nail in the bench. Pull the chain out till I can hook it on the nail marked for the number of teeth, punch the river that's lined up with the brake, ezpz
 
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  • #20
I don't need to go buy a bunch of chain tools at this point, if I could afford it, then I'd just pay whatever chain costs. The next option would be for me to find a spool for a good price and hope someone local doesn't charge much to make the loops, but the only place I know spins rivets doesn't spin them down far enough, so they look like a cracked mushroom that I have to hammer the sides down on, so they don't dig into the wood as bad.
 
I think my Stihl dealer charges about $3/ loop normally (free for commercial customers, along with good commercial chain discounts), but again, YMMV.


An easy thing to outsource, if you're too busy to get to it. Probably cost effective, too, for pro quality spinning.
 
When I was logging we just peened them with a ball peen hammer, you really don't "need " a spinner
 
Grind the rivets with the corner of the bench grinder and pop out with a punch and hammer
 
I guess part of the question is, how many loops have you to make from the roll to pay the breaker/spinner?
 
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