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Thread: Teach me to cut fast

  1. #1
    TreeHouser Nutball's Avatar
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    Default Teach me to cut fast

    What's the fastest cutting chain you recommend for a Jonsered 2188/Husqvarna 390? I ask this because the main reason I got this saw is to save time cutting 4-18" logs. Plus it's helpful to be able to cut big stuff. So far I've gotten the speed up to about as fast of a rate as I can. I either use a Stihl 33RS chain with about 3-4 strokes of a long (8" or more) flat file on the depth gauges, or an Oregon full skip with (I can't remember exactly) maybe 5 strokes with the flat file. I have not timed the skip chain, but there wasn't an obviously noticeable change in speed, maybe a little faster, but I think if I make the depth gauges any lower I'll run into lack of power issues. Other than not being able to cut much with the tip due to severe kickback I'm happy with the setup so far, but it's fun to try to go faster. I was wondering if anyone has used some sort of extra skip chain for bucking vs just ripping on a mill. Is it safe to use something like Oregon 27rx 9" skip chain on a hand held saw? Obviously there is a balance between the depth a tooth cuts, the power required to turn the chain, and the rpm and the time it takes the next tooth to get into the wood depending on skip length. With the 33RS chain (not skip chain) on a 20" bar, 19" cut length with felling spikes, going through a roughly 23" or so solid oak log took only 20 seconds consistently, not bad at all in my opinion. The other thing I'm still trying to figure out is pressure on the saw vs rpm. Some times it seems like a lot of pressure and low rpm cuts fastest by helping the teeth cut deeper, but then sometimes it seems like little pressure and very high rpm cuts faster. I tend to just run it in the middle, very consistent medium rpm, medium pressure, by habit rather than watching for a difference in cut speed vs different rpms.

    Long story short: will using extra extra long skip chain buck faster and safely?

    I'm looking for chain related answers not porting and big bore upgrades...although I should. BTW that's a 32" bar in the picture for scale
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails DSC01075 (640x480).jpg  

  2. #2
    Student of the Jedi treebilly's Avatar
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    Smooth is fast. All I can add. I messed around with the rakers and found that pretty close to factory is great for most hard woods.
    -Rich

  3. #3
    TreeHouse Administrator MasterBlaster's Avatar
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    I always like to bring em down just a tiny bit...

  4. #4
    TreeHouser Sponsor woodworkingboy's Avatar
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    Pressure wash your logs, especially around the stump. Get the dirt out.
    Bright days and dark days are both expressions of the great mystery. ~ Oglala Sioux

  5. #5
    Woods walker Sponsor Burnham's Avatar
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    You are dipping into risky territory with dropping rakers that much, imo.

    I think you might do better on improving cut times with a stock saw by concentrating on completely properly shaped cutters, and really paying attention to your saw handling technique.
    "Confidence is the feeling you sometimes have before you fully understand the situation."

  6. #6
    TreeHouser Sponsor Grendel's Avatar
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    I agree with Rich. Smooth IS fast. Once you've got your chain dialed in and acceptably razor sharp, it's all about how you apply pressure and the feel in the cut.
    “Experience is a hard teacher because she gives the test first, the lesson afterward.”
    Vernon Law

    Sam

    MI-4209A

  7. #7
    TreeHouser Mick!'s Avatar
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    I've heard experienced guys talk about taking down rakers from stock if they're cutting just softwood.

    Otherwise as it comes out of the box has to be best.
    From the supreme commander of Project Earth transition.



    Mick

  8. #8
    TreeHouse Administrator MasterBlaster's Avatar
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    I beg to differ.

  9. #9
    TreeHouser Mick!'s Avatar
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    Your prerogative.
    From the supreme commander of Project Earth transition.



    Mick

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