Teach me to cut fast

Nutball

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What's the fastest cutting chain you recommend for a Jonsered 2188/Husqvarna 390? I ask this because the main reason I got this saw is to save time cutting 4-18" logs. Plus it's helpful to be able to cut big stuff. So far I've gotten the speed up to about as fast of a rate as I can. I either use a Stihl 33RS chain with about 3-4 strokes of a long (8" or more) flat file on the depth gauges, or an Oregon full skip with (I can't remember exactly) maybe 5 strokes with the flat file. I have not timed the skip chain, but there wasn't an obviously noticeable change in speed, maybe a little faster, but I think if I make the depth gauges any lower I'll run into lack of power issues. Other than not being able to cut much with the tip due to severe kickback I'm happy with the setup so far, but it's fun to try to go faster. I was wondering if anyone has used some sort of extra skip chain for bucking vs just ripping on a mill. Is it safe to use something like Oregon 27rx 9" skip chain on a hand held saw? Obviously there is a balance between the depth a tooth cuts, the power required to turn the chain, and the rpm and the time it takes the next tooth to get into the wood depending on skip length. With the 33RS chain (not skip chain) on a 20" bar, 19" cut length with felling spikes, going through a roughly 23" or so solid oak log took only 20 seconds consistently, not bad at all in my opinion. The other thing I'm still trying to figure out is pressure on the saw vs rpm. Some times it seems like a lot of pressure and low rpm cuts fastest by helping the teeth cut deeper, but then sometimes it seems like little pressure and very high rpm cuts faster. I tend to just run it in the middle, very consistent medium rpm, medium pressure, by habit rather than watching for a difference in cut speed vs different rpms.

Long story short: will using extra extra long skip chain buck faster and safely?

I'm looking for chain related answers not porting and big bore upgrades...although I should. BTW that's a 32" bar in the picture for scale
 

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Smooth is fast. All I can add. I messed around with the rakers and found that pretty close to factory is great for most hard woods.
 
You are dipping into risky territory with dropping rakers that much, imo.

I think you might do better on improving cut times with a stock saw by concentrating on completely properly shaped cutters, and really paying attention to your saw handling technique.
 
I agree with Rich. Smooth IS fast. Once you've got your chain dialed in and acceptably razor sharp, it's all about how you apply pressure and the feel in the cut.
 
I've heard experienced guys talk about taking down rakers from stock if they're cutting just softwood.

Otherwise as it comes out of the box has to be best.
 
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I never touch rakers until I am half way down the tooth. hardwood I keep them high.
Most compensate low sharpness with low rakers. Feels like it cuts better, it do in soft or smaller wood, but not with the risk and excessive wear IMO.
As I cut bigger wood mostly I need gutters to perform to get speed.
Low raker usually mean a splint wood in gullet and lots of air.
I want one long, thin layer of fiber to curl up and fill gullet so there is no air.
Hard dry wood is different. You need it to be really sharp and not so much friction.
I file differently depending on saws power and weight. I want them to cut without me sitting on them or holding them back.

Chains charpness is a pretty interesting topic. Its quite hard to describe or compare, but shows real well when cutting a bit.
I usually compare with new chains. If you think they are good, a chain well shapened and in right shape, it will cut 25-30% faster right off the bat
 
Nice post Magnus,

I'd also mention that with the rakers knocked down, if you hit something, dirt, whtever, it will really mangle the tooth.
 
A good breathing / running saw with a sharp chain and a good bar with a length of say 24 inches.

Now, with that a given, in the hands of 3 different people, such a saw cutting a 30 inch stem the times can vary by as much as 5 seconds. Just by technique alone.

We had competitions many times out on the job. Same saw, same log. Just different people running it. Our competitions were friendly and base solely on improving ones technique.
 
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  • #15
Interesting link Buddy. That link says skip chains might not be faster, but they didn't mention if that is with the depth gauges filed too, likely not.

I agree with technique being important, I often see good and bad being used around me. As for new chains, factory sharpness is as good as it gets, but they do need a little taken off the depth gauges first thing when new to cut fast. I also have found out how much the teeth get mangled from hitting rocks with low depth gauges. I try to keep spare chains handy, so I never sharpen on the job. One or two speed chains, and a stock one for low kickback if it's needed for in tree use, big hardwood, or top of bar/tip cutting.

I guess nobody here has been crazy enough to try a very long-skip chain with very low depth gauge. Probably not a good idea anyway. If I did it, I'd probably chop the top of some of the cutters off when modifying a chain to have a long skip, and leave the sides and/or depth gauges there to keep things smooth running. I used to think woodland pro made an extra skip chain that was basically a skip and a half, but I can't find it now.

Another option I have no experience with is a 7 tooth vs an 8 tooth sprocket. I've seen it mentioned often using a bigger sprocket for more chain speed, but I think that would just hurt the engine torque too much and not have as much benefit as filing the depth gauges. It might work well on a 120cc or high power modified 90cc, but not my stock 90cc.
 
Seems like Oregon has got themselves into some sort of KYA thing about raker height.
20 years ago, I'd just use their chains right out of the roll, after sharpening, of course.
Now, my raker guide and my sense of cutting tells me to take some off before using the chain.

Anybody else notice that?
 
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  • #17
KYA? What does that mean? I figure they try to be on the safer side. I don't have enough experience to compare chains much, but I used .325 and 3/8 Oregon and Husqvarna chain for a few years just to cut firewood occasionally, and when I used Stihl's 33RS for the first time I was amazed at how aggressive it was, I'd have to hold back a little bit to keep it from stalling. I know I had to teach a friend once to file his depth gauges after I saw him take 10 minutes (maybe 5min literally) to cut a 12" stump at high rpm.
 
I always took the rakers down on new chain, stihl and oregon. Full skip is suppose to shine in big wood, it has more room between teeth to store sawdust until it gets pulled out of the cut. I only ever ran a couple full skip chains so my experience is limited to full comp. Full comp is arguably a smoother cutting chain... Make sure you keep your gullets filed out as your chain wears down.
 
I think they could be a bit higher. When chain run a bit, not dull perhaps, but lost that feeling I want and act like any other new chain you feel it is a tad aggressive.
Its no big problem, I cuddle with it a bit and go again...
 
How fast a saw moves through the wood is only a portion of "cutting fast"...better efficiency = higher production...eliminate all unnecessary movements/steps in the process and you'll be faster and expend less energy accomplishing more.
 
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  • #22
How fast a saw moves through the wood is only a portion of "cutting fast"...better efficiency = higher production...eliminate all unnecessary movements/steps in the process and you'll be faster and expend less energy accomplishing more.

I got that part down pat.
 
A good breathing / running saw with a sharp chain and a good bar with a length of say 24 inches.

Now, with that a given, in the hands of 3 different people, such a saw cutting a 30 inch stem the times can vary by as much as 5 seconds. Just by technique alone.

We had competitions many times out on the job. Same saw, same log. Just different people running it. Our competitions were friendly and base solely on improving ones technique.

My point exactly. Technique trumps anything else by miles, given some general standard of chain sharpness and a properly running saw.
 
I just stick with the old Carlton File-o-Plate for my rakers. It produces a consistent result without me having to pay attention to what I'm doing. Plus, I'm not the only person who uses my saws and the last thing I need is a groundie getting a bad case of chainsaw to the face.
 
We have a 'Houser here who experienced that!
 

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