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Thread: Spot the mistakes and cast your judgement.

  1. #31
    TreeHouse Administrator MasterBlaster's Avatar
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    I stuck the thread!

  2. #32
    THE CALM ONE!!!! Sponsor squisher's Avatar
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    I still can't believe I've been allowed to stay and hangout for all these years. Lol

  3. #33
    TreeHouse Administrator MasterBlaster's Avatar
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    No worries, Garth!

  4. #34
    THE CALM ONE!!!! Sponsor squisher's Avatar
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    Heh!

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    I resemble that remark!

  5. #35
    Treehouser Sponsor
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    As with anything, multiple right and good ways.
    I think in any of them, nobody advocates losing any ground on the lean.


    In my estimation, 'reading' the wedging effect along with judging the cutting of the hinge thickness/ shape/ defects are a dynamic process. Feeling the rebound of the ax, listening to the pitch of the strike, seeing the movement of the stem, watching the wiggle/ oscillation of the trunk and top, noticing deadwood breakage from wedge/ ax impact, etc are the details of it.

  6. #36
    Woods walker Sponsor Burnham's Avatar
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    I could not agree more, Sean. You put it clear and succinct. Well written.
    "Confidence is the feeling you sometimes have before you fully understand the situation."

  7. #37
    Patron saint of bore-cutters Sponsor stig's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Burnham View Post
    I'm more with Reg on setting wedges and how much...but for sure it is not going to be the same with every tree. Back leaners wedge over much easier if you don't allow them to set back any at all, and that takes keeping wedges tight all through the back cut.

    Somewhere here in a thread we talked about how much backlean can be overcome. We covered some pretty extreme methods. I'll see if I can find it.
    This is one point where hardwoods differ a bit from conifers.
    Hardwoods as in "HARD" woods, that is.
    The wood doesn't compress much over and under the wedge, so you don't need to pound a lot on your wedges, before cutting to the hinge.
    They will hold the tree anyway, unless we are talking extreme backlean.
    In the woods, I don't deal with extreme back lean. I simply decide that it must be God's will that the tree goes with the lean, otherwise why did he/she/it create it with so much lean.
    So I either fall it with the lean or leave it be.
    Hence my preferred method is to start the backcut, set as many wedges as I deem necessary and finish the cut.
    Then pound wedges. As Sean wrote, no use in fighting against a thick hinge when you are trying to wedge a tree over, that energy is better spent elsewhere.

    Again, I realize I'm thinking like the production faller that I am, always cutting to scale.
    EVERY advantage gained shows in the paycheck.
    They may only be little things, but over a season they add up.

    I can see checking your bar tip if you are running a 60" bar, but on a 24", no way.

    Burnham, have you ever felled a tree with leaves
    Deyr f,
    deyja frndr,
    deyr sjlfr et sama;
    ek veit einn,
    at aldri deyr:
    dmr um dauan hvern.

  8. #38
    Woods walker Sponsor Burnham's Avatar
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    I seem to recall a fair number of red alder, some bigleaf maple, some bitter cherry, some cottonwood. None of which are HARD hardwoods, just as you say. A few Oregon ash, one small Garry oak...harder hardwood there .

    But you are right, most of my experience is western conifers, an inch wide and a mile deep.
    "Confidence is the feeling you sometimes have before you fully understand the situation."

  9. #39
    Patron saint of bore-cutters Sponsor stig's Avatar
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    I hadn't teased you for a while, couldn't pass this one up.
    Deyr f,
    deyja frndr,
    deyr sjlfr et sama;
    ek veit einn,
    at aldri deyr:
    dmr um dauan hvern.

  10. #40
    Woods walker Sponsor Burnham's Avatar
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    Yeah, I'd been wondering if you have been unwell. Well, more unwell than you actually have been. How's that going these days?
    "Confidence is the feeling you sometimes have before you fully understand the situation."

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