Chainsaw Rebuilder?

Bodean

Cali dreamer
Joined
Dec 9, 2005
Messages
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San Francisco, Kali
Hey all. Especially those that know something about saws.

My 044 is sputtering.... on choke comes alive then dies....hit the trigger burp burp dies....won't hold an idle. I tried adjusting the screws.

Is it an air leak...?

Coughs every time with the choke on....but doesn't seem to pull more gas from the tank....filter looks good...

I guess rubber hoses?


I was thinking just having someone rebuild the whole saw....bore it out etc....

Who does that?
 
Yeah, check out the air leak possibility first. Definitely check the hoses, especially the 'corrugated' one from the gas tank to the carb, likely culprit on an older saw.
 
Yup. I'm guessing a leak in a fuel line or needing a carb. Short of that my only advise is to pop out the spark plug, shine a flashlight in there and look for a scored cylinder. Honestly I think it's a carb or fuel line issue. Could be wrong though.
 
It does sound like it could be an air leak. Just wondering about the condition of the carb, particularly the pump and metering diaphragms, have they become hardened and unable to function properly? I think in addition to looking for a hose leak, pulling apart the carb to clean and check it out could be useful. Diaphragms needing replacement, particularly the metering one, are what I find the most with fuel not moving properly, then hoses that have become old.
 
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  • #6
Wow. The TH rocks.

Chase down an air leak...I never do that stuff, sounds so easy. I just cut stuff.

HL Supply has stihl replacement stuff. I'll look there.

I really like this saw and am willing to sink some $ into it....since I only paid $80 for it..... 5 years for me so far and ten for the previous owner.
 
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  • #7
Time to act like an adult and fix broken stuff, I suppose.

No wonder my kid is such a Thrash.
 
If you decide not to put money into it I'll cover the shipping and you can send her my way. I'll give it a proper retirement;)
 
How does it run with the fuel cap cracked partially open? (Plugged fuel tank vent.)

How does it run squirting fuel into the throat of the carb? (Fuel issues rather than gasket and seal air leak issues - far easier to repair.)

(But I'm just a mechanical hack. :)
 
Yup, wiggle that 'corrugated' one, micro cracks can hide in the corrugations.
Ditto on the fuel tank vent, I've had to replace two. If the saw dies or doesn't run well, turn it off and crack the cap, if you get a hiss of air going in...clean the tank vent.
 
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  • #12
You guys are great.

Thank you folks a bunch....good thing I have the old 372 to step up...hopefully it makes the day.

I've got a 36 inch redwood today.

I'm going to try and fix this old 44. I was actually wary that something hadn't gone wrong with it already.
 
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  • #13
Merle. Good diagnostics.

I bet the fuel line/vent is cavitating. Feels soft.

And I heard the hiss of air and watched it bubble a bit.
 
Yep. My rebuilt 44 Magnum is the best saw that I have, I love that little saw!
 
It could be any number of things but all related to fuel delivery .Cracked fuel line,plugged filter ,plugged up carb . Might be as simple as just a little turn of the carb jets.
 
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  • #18
Thanks Al. I re set the screws...hope it's not a carb thing.

Raj, those are my favorite fixes....just blow it out.
 
Deva, carb thing is a minor repair too basically, if it is the diaphragms that need replacement. You just have to take the carb out of the saw, which gives a good chance to clean the carb too. If you do it once you pretty much have it down, as all carbs are basically the same. Pulling off the carb on some saws can sometimes rattle your brain a bit, but it isn't rocket science. Give it a shot.
 
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  • #22
The people up on the coast out there are so down to earth, grounded, mellow and appreciative of what the sea can both give and take.
 
Thread Hijack!

I got a mid 90's 066 last year, actually a box of saw parts that used to be an 066... Story I heard was that it was used for a chainsaw mill and the piston shattered while flushing a big stump. I bought a new cylinder and piston, and right now have the crank case by itself, with the flywheel and clutch still attached. Remaining piston is still attached.

Should I just throw the new cylinder on and see if it goes? Can I check the seals with it in its current state? split the case and check the bearings to see if they ate any piston shrapnel?

Wanted a tinkering project, but maybe a bit over my head & not sure where to start. How would you experts attempt to revive this corpse of a saw.

Money on parts is already spent, so worst case scenario I'm out about $150. What can I do to increase my chance of getting this old dog up and running again?
 
There certainly are more experienced people than me who would likely offer a wiser reply, but I would guess that the saw might well have simply quickly froze up with no damage to the crank bearings or anything else besides the p and c.

After thoroughly blowing out and cleaning the crankcase and parts within, check the crank movement. If it seems good, why not go for it with a new p and c. When you do install the new piston on the crank, be mindful of the circlips position that holds the piston on the crank pin. The curly q should either be in the up or down position in it's seat, not sideways, or it's said that the clip can fly out. I had a clip either break or fly out once on a real cool modified saw that I had put a lot of work into and was getting real good use from, rendering both the piston and cylinder damaged to uselessness.

Bring that saw back to life!
 
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