Toggle Knot Development

Seems like with a marl/ half-hitch, it would be really secure.

Is it only possible permanently spliced on?

Seems like it would be possible to tie to the toggle with a long-hole bowline, if it's sized to fit two strands thru the ring.
 
I've been waiting to see the results from this. I believe this could be great for the 1/2" lines. As Carson stated in the video they are probably the most common used. I'd be interested to see how it compares to the RB as far as breaking strength. Also cycles to failure. We all know that the working end will wear out first and splicing a used rope is a bitch. Maybe make the bigger size or sizes as an option but it's not often that I personally bring out the big guns anymore.
I honestly love the simplicity of this but need to get a little more info. Good idea for no knot rigging though.
 
I would assume so but can you post the break test results? If not can you post a link to them? I'm just curious as I'm sure others would be.

On another note, I want to thank you and your crew for handling my last order so quickly. UPS screwed up my tracking number but Josh answered my questions and straightened things out for me. Now I get to put in a few hours of OT so all the crews are set up for Monday.
 
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We only have preliminary results as we have not tooled or produced the final items. I dont have the data in front of me but you can rest assured that we will publish this when we have final production pieces.
 
Nick, I think this is great. I posted on the Youtube vid, but again, I think 1/2" is where you should focus development. A lot of rigging is done on 1/2" lines, and the cats who feel the need for 5/8" and 3/4" lines can take the time to tie the running bowlines in those applications. For rigging out limbs and light dynamic stuff, this would be sweet!

I like it. 1/2" is totally my vote.

ETA: Please get some different color 1/2" polydyne. Orange would be sweet, but anything other than white would be awesome. haha
 
Being spliced means that it won't be tight- crotch friendly, and not work well with rigging rings.

Seems 1/2" is the best application.

Edit: the toggle could fit through some rings.
 
Good idea Nick.

We use toggle like this regularly in skyline logging. There is a toggle attached to the end of the drop line. The rings are on the end of the chokers opposite end of the nubbins and bells. This makes it easy to take chokers on and off the line. In tree work it would be like having a toggle on the end of your rigging line, and rings on your loop runners. You can put as many loop runners on the line as you need, and take them off when you dont.

I definitely think 1/2" is the place to start. I think it would also be nice to have the toggle be removable. Shackle between toggle and rope seems the easiest to me, that or a big enough eye in the toggle that it can be girth hitched.
 
I would probably not use it because of the fact that it's not a "closed" system if you can follow me and the fact that there is a chunk of metal on one end limiting its use in some of my rigging setups.
 
This looks very similar to the no knot rigging system that was developed. Why the change in direction from that product?
 
That system has been used in yarder logging for quite a while. Though, the choker has the ring spliced on the end opposite the bell and nubbin, and the toggle is spliced on the end of the drop line. It works, but isn't as extensively used as the regular loop-eye choker.
 
2 Sizes:

1. Regular- 3/8" to 9/16",
9/16" rated
2. Large- 5/8"-3/4",
3/4" rated.
 
My Murphy's law detector's glowing on this.

Some of the nastier injuries I've seen n heard about were caused by failed lines with hardware at the end, whippin it good enuff to need an ambulance.

Jomo
 
There's a reason that Bell n Ball quick connect's never met certification standards and were never approved for overhead lifting above personnel.

Probably the rule I broke the most performing crane removals with BEll n Ball quick connect's, thousands n thousands of times.

I always assumed the reason B n B's were verboten's they can be connected backwards by mistake n fail.

Jomo
 
I don't think I would use anything like it. Like someone else said earlier it limits the use of your rope and now you have metal at the end of your line. Slightly heavier I suppose which might come into play when pole setting. None of that really matters I suppose but I'm curious as to why you need it. Any climber worth his salt can tie a knot in a few seconds.
 
The worrying aspect's that it's being promoted for use on half inch ropes, rigging ropes.

And I snapped a lot more small riggin lines than big one's!

Jomo
 
Seems like with a marl/ half-hitch, it would be really secure.

Is it only possible permanently spliced on?

Seems like it would be possible to tie to the toggle with a long-hole bowline, if it's sized to fit two strands thru the ring.

It would have to be a darn small limb for the ring to come all the way around and 'see' the knot at the toggle- seems like you could just tie the rope on with a triple fisherman's or a tight bowline or something and not have to modify the design at all?


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I don't think I would use anything like it. Like someone else said earlier it limits the use of your rope and now you have metal at the end of your line. Slightly heavier I suppose which might come into play when pole setting. None of that really matters I suppose but I'm curious as to why you need it. Any climber worth his salt can tie a knot in a few seconds.

Or clip a 'biner round the bull rope.

I wonder how the "no knot rigging" thingy August reviewed is selling?
 
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