Pistol Grip Wrist Saving Arborist Tool

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But don't you have to hold on to the gizmo?

How is that saving your hand?

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I'm thinking it's just too complicated for me to grasp...

Get it? Grasp? LOL
 
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  • #54
The perils of being part of the youtube generation.....

Jomo
 
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  • #56
There's a 3 inch lateral I wanna cut catch n Chuck.

So I whip out my Ronco Pocket Fisherman, ergonomically designed for a good single handed grip, tie off that branch to the end of my 200 lb test fishing line, reel in tight, set the drag to locked, cut the branch right handed, catch the branch left handed, with my dildo gizmo, swing it over the DZ, and pull the trigger that cuts the line.
 

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Shall I try to embed it, and risk locking up the thread, ole pal?

Jomo
 
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  • #60
What about Mick n Stig?

Does it play for them now too?

Jomo
 
I only grasp the limbs with 2" diameter max, except with dead wood which can be a little bigger. That's about what I can hold with the thumb touching the trigger finger, giving me the best grip. I found that's a good size for most trees to match the max load I can handle. Cupressus arizonica for example has a lower limit due to it's density and its heavy clusters of fruits.

The way I understand the gizmo is to avoid the twisting motion on the wrist when the limb fall from upright position. The hand has to take the load however, but the rope follow all the angle's changes without complaining, so the wrist isn't forced sideway.

Usually, when you grasp full hand a limb in front of you or above, the wrist is almost in line with the arm, the thumb oriented to the butt side and the pinky to the tip, so the limb is perpendicular to your arm / wrist, like any tool's handle. After the cut, the limb falls tip first, pulling down your hand.
With a light limb, no worry, you can keep the hand in front of you, the fore-arm just rotates to accommodate the new position, the limb staying perpendicular to your arm, like you hold a candle and the wrist is fine.
With a heavier limb, the arm can't hold it like that and is forced to unfold, becoming vertical, in line with the limb. Problem, the hand has to hold it perpendicular to keep this heavy weight (best grip). The poor wrist is in between and unable to match this angle, locked and over stressed. Because of that, the hand can't fully follow the limb. Finally, the limb try to open your hand by prying out the pinky and the ring finger, so only three fingers are able to maintain the grip. With a heavy limb, it's painful and close to a oopsy.

If you hold the limb with the thumb to the tip and the pinky to the butt, like it would be ok after the cut with the limb dandling under you, the hand is palm up and the fore-arm can't rotate any more to follow the fall. The wrist and the shoulder take the beating (hard).

I've tried to find a better hand position / movement for the heavy woods, but no way.
I use a lot the self rigging technique with a bunch of slings which I always carry on my saddle. That's handy, from 2" to about 6-8" diameter, but it's time consuming, regardless of the diameter.

The cut release on the handle would avoid half of that time. If the setting around the limb can be quickly made, the Jomo's gizmo could be interesting.

But Sean seems right too, the perpendicular handle has better holding capabilities.
 
Actually, there's one move relatively friendly for the wrist/arm. It's for the limbs on the opposite side of the trunk or above you, by letting them go forward away from you, not to the side. The hand keeps its grip in line with the limb and your arm, like with an axe splitting fire logs.
But there's a problem, the forearm is just in the path of the chainsaw or the handsaw. That could be a concern...:/:
 
I'm with Mick and Stig....up till about two posts ago thanks to Marc-A. Took a Euro to explain it. :/:

Girth hitched loop runners...catch dem sukkas, then drop them, no wrists needed.
 
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  • #67
Never fear Mick!

I cornered my retired older brother last night, a journeymen machinist n hardcore gun enthusiast.

I set the hook deep!

Told him he could sell em for 4 bills a pop!

You Clantons better clear out!

All the other kids with their pumped up kicks...

Jomo
 
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  • #71
So I started assembling a fully ratcheting ARP prototype today, got carried away, and the most lovely design in the world slowly clicked into being in my head. All stainless steel, very compact, dual triggers, about 2 lbs, should last a lifetime.

It'll look remarkably similar to a flare pistol with a two inch OD barrel, and a horizontally mounted ratcheting spool where the rear sight's normally located. Cuts one of the cords, or both at your discretion, depending on whether you cock both hammers n pull both triggers at once, given em both barrels. The sliding cutting anvils will be eerily similar to the bolt action of an automatic rifle or pistol.

1000 feet of kevlar cords equivalent to bouta 1000 rounds for thirty bucks, cheaper than China!

Who's gonna pay 4 bills for the first finished n tested ARP.

How about Daniel?

He still flies buckets!

I'd post pics of my prototype I'm takin to my bro to get the basic functions down, but you guys'd just laugh n say huh?

Firing just one anvil costs only three inches of cord, whereas firing both'll cost about sixteen inches, depending on branch thickness, and how many wraps you take on it? If you take wraps? It's important to cock and fire both anvils simultaneously.

Jomo
 
Huh?:D

You better get some good vids up if you want people to shell out $400 sheckels for your branch shooting, slicing and holding all in one branch catching gizmo.
 
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  • #73
What the hell!!

Laugh your azzes off guys!

I kin take it.
 

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  • #75
Branch grabbing Squish!

Yu don't shoot till it's swung over the DZ.

With a nice clean release? A bit like bowling, maybe put a little english on it even!

Jomo
 
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