Any safety reasons to not use a particular saw in a tree?

Robert P

TreeHouser
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Jul 11, 2014
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Have a Remington 20" saw, 46cc engine around 16 lbs. Not the heaviest saw but heavier than saws I see that are specified as in-tree saws. Are there specific safety reasons you shouldn't use a bigger saw when climbing?
 
Is that saw still making the rounds at shows? Bad backs might preclude attempts at new world records.
 
Robert A was member here. They have chain protection set up on most shows.
Ear protection I bet they use, pluggs probably..

Shaps or pants will not help much at all.
 
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Robert A was member here. They have chain protection set up on most shows.
Ear protection I bet they use, pluggs probably..

Shaps or pants will not help much at all.
Maybe not typical chaps/pants but I'm sure purpose-made body armor could be made that would offer protection.
 
Maybe not typical chaps/pants but I'm sure purpose-made body armor could be made that would offer protection.
Haha, not likely. If things go that wrong with the predator, bad stuffs going to happen no matter what
 
The front handles look bent on the Predator, probably from banging into the ground after completing the cut.
 
I don't use a 660 in a tree...I don't have one, it's too big and I'm too small.
 
More power to you on the 660. I have a 650 and cannot imagine it in a tree...or imagine a tree where I would need it in a tree. No big homeys like that here, thank goodness.
 
I have seen too many climbers struggle to make big cuts with a saw/bar that is too small, especially on sweeping stems. It can put them in a poor position to finish there cuts or burn them out, trying to cut in an awkward position. Learning to use a bigger saw in a tree is a skill like any other - it takes time to master, but the benifits are obvious
 
As far as in a tree ,the biggest I've seen was an 066 out of a bucket .Myself,not a climber,not even a tree man for that matter was a 200T. That I can handle .
 
I don't use a 660 in a tree...I don't have one, it's too big and I'm too small.

Should the need arise to use a bigger saw than you can easily maneuver, you can use a smaller saw for pilot kerfs, then slot in the bigger. With big bars, like 50"+, a pilot kerf is somewhat obligitory to avoid throwing a chain.
Part of the trick is having large dogs. Once the dogs are biting the bark, there is no holding the full weight of the saw. You can pivot the saw around, working between the stationary cutters and dogs for grip to position, roll back onto the dogs to start the chain, then roll back in on the dogs to cut.
 
I have seen too many climbers struggle to make big cuts with a saw/bar that is too small, especially on sweeping stems. It can put them in a poor position to finish there cuts or burn them out, trying to cut in an awkward position. Learning to use a bigger saw in a tree is a skill like any other - it takes time to master, but the benifits are obvious

Can I have an AMEN!
I progress with saws as I work down the tree. 200T down to 14-16" depending on bar and wood. Then a 60 cc to a 72 cc saw with a 20-24 inch bar.
Then up comes the 066 with a 36.
044 with a 24 went up this one to start chunking it down from 150'. Soon ran out of bar after a couple cuts and up cam the 066. Left the stem at 70 foot and felled the spar as it would fit. I would have had to double cut the chunks below 60 foot.
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Nice tip Sean...I'll file that for when I need it, might need it here in Tasmania :)
But really I'm very small, and a lightweight to boot
 
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