Best rebuild kit 200T

stehansen

Climbing Up
Joined
Aug 25, 2005
Messages
9,185
Location
Ceres, CA
I'm sorry if this has been covered a bunch of times before. I was using my one remaining 200T a couple of weeks ago and it went weak all of a sudden then wouldn't run at all unless I choked it. I replaced the carb on it not too long ago. My cousin took it to the Stihl dealer and the piston is scored. I'm thinking about attempting to rebuild this as I have time now and my question is: What is the best rebuild kit for this saw? I'm assuming there is a kit from Stihl but I thought I would ask anyway. I haven't seen it yet as I am in Victoria, BC for a few more days and my saw is probably a bunch of parts in a box in Patterson, CA.
 
The kits coming out of China aren't too bad. I got one off Ebay for the one I got form you and my other one. Both worked great. Just have to order the OEM circlips from the dealer. I also use OEM new needle bearing on the piston pin. Often, you have to order the head gasket OEM as well. Hell they have whole crank case plus cylinder assemblies now for around 150.00.. wow.
Also ... replace your fuel line and impulse line while you are in there.
 
I can pretty much tell you the story on the 200 because I've seen a bunch of them go south .The saw uses 7 roller roller bearings with a fiber thrust wall .Given enough time the thrust walls go bad which cause the shaft to walk side to side which destroys the seals .It's not sudden,takes a long time .You keep giving it more and more fuel by adjusting the high speed jet out to keep it running .Finally it can't run for over 5 minutes until it either leans out completely or has to be ran with the choke .Sound familiar?

So unless the cylinder is complete toast it probably can clean up .Try a 3m pad with kerosine or WD -40 .May work,may not .If it does new piston seals and bearings .Bearings and seals are around 60 bucks at a dealer .These little saws are by far the easiest Stihl ever made to work on .The bearings are slip fit not pressed fit .
 
After thought .Some place on this forum I had a thread of a complete tear down and reassembley of a 200T .If you decide to do the work and can't find it I can get into my other computer and retrieve the pictures and post them again .
 
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Thanks guys. I have a couple of other projects in front of this. but I should get to it before the end of the year.
 
At one time you could buy used cases on e-bay for about 50 bucks .Obviously a lot of 020 and 200t's had died from bad seals .Funny part was most thought it was because of bad carbs including myself .Live and learn----
 
They did a a couple carbs that was really bad on the 200's. Mark-Antoine posted a really good solution to this I applied many times now.
These caused all kinds of problems including bearing fails in main and piston.
 
I can pretty much tell you the story on the 200 because I've seen a bunch of them go south .The saw uses 7 roller roller bearings with a fiber thrust wall .Given enough time the thrust walls go bad which cause the shaft to walk side to side which destroys the seals .It's not sudden,takes a long time .You keep giving it more and more fuel by adjusting the high speed jet out to keep it running .Finally it can't run for over 5 minutes until it either leans out completely or has to be ran with the choke .Sound familiar?

So unless the cylinder is complete toast it probably can clean up .Try a 3m pad with kerosine or WD -40 .May work,may not .If it does new piston seals and bearings .Bearings and seals are around 60 bucks at a dealer .These little saws are by far the easiest Stihl ever made to work on .The bearings are slip fit not pressed fit .

Al I love you but good lord you tell that theory a lot.
 
What,the seals?It's the truth .

Here's what happened to put me onto it .I was having problems,thought it was the carb.I thought I found a crack in the fuel chamber.Adam Clark thought that too on some of his 200T's .Fixed it with red loctite,seemed to work a little better for a while .

I had sent another carb to Eddie Anderson at Stihl USA in Virginia Beach for annalization,he sent me a brand new Zama C1Q .Tried it and it ran better but still leaned out after a while .Changed seals and bearings and it has never ran better no problems .
I did the same on one of Toms 020 T's and it cured it .
 
Here's another thing .The seals on an 020/200 are not conventional double lip seals .Some odd ball single lip things I've never seen before,tiny little things .I think if a person were to pull the old seals and get the carbon build up off the crankshaft caused by oil and wood dust and install just seals it could add longevity to most saws having a lean out problem .Seals on these things are easy to change .
 
Why would you have double lip seals on them?

Seals number one cause of fail is lack of lubrication.
Second is bad bearings.
 
Shared by a stihl dealer on my chainsaw repair group.

Just wanted to tell all the Stihl MS200T guys/gals here that Stihl has lowered their MSRP on the cylinder and piston kit to $159.
Why would you ever buy aftermarket with that price on OEM now?!
 
For $159 for that kit plus another 60 for OEM bearings and seals you'd have nearly a factory fresh 200T all things considered .Those P and C kits were once about $300 when a 200T was selling for a tad over $600 .With all that the only thing that could go bad is the crank/rod bearing of which I've never heard of go bad .Remember they don't make a 200T any more .Best little trim saw ever made as far as I'm concerned .
 
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