Mr. Pine Pitch holds me up at 40ft

soup-n-sandwich

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Richmond RI
Hi Guys,
I use a HitchHiker 2 with Sterling HTP 11mm. I'm new to climbing and have learned the hard way that a lower-able basal anchor is a good idea. I didn't think I'd be using it so quickly. Nearly all of the tree I climb for work is the White Pine. After descending from about 80 feet the HH got stuck at about the 40ft mark. Collapsing the hitch did nothing, the hitch just collapsed with no tension what so ever on it. Tugging on the lower tail of the hitch cord, while collapsing the hitch dropped me about 3 inches at a time. I was a bit worried, thinking I would drop without the consistent friction. I expected pitch to be sticky but instead it's actually hard and crusty forming a glaze of the rope.

A few questions about pitch:
  • Is any one type of rope more susceptible (or less) to pine pitch than others?
  • Is the HitchHiker the only hybrid or mechanical device that suffers from pitch in the way I've experienced?
  • Is there a safe way to remove pitch from the rope once it's on there?
    • Is there a method to protect the rope from pitch before it goes up?


    I was thinking, (after checking with the rope manufacturer) maybe there's a solvent I could use on the rope to remove the pitch from it?
    Any thoughts on these questions guys?

    Soup
 
Read this thread, in its entirety. A lot of great suggestions from the veteran climbers on this forum.

Tim

https://www.masterblasterhome.com/s...climbing-rope&highlight=pitch,+cleaning,+rope

Also, welcome to the Tree House forum! It's a great place to hang out and learn a ton about all aspects of tree work. Don't forget to use the forum's "search" function to help you to find a lot of older threads that may have already covered the information you are seeking at any given time. The forum is like a repository for many long, detailed conversations. Don't get stuck thinking that if something is not currently being discussed, you're out of luck. It probably exists in the archives.
 
You are welcome, Chris. I think I added a little to my previous post while you were posting your response; please read it if you haven't already. The search function opens up worlds of great information.

Tim
 
I use the HH to make a second lanyard, so there is minimal pitch at the 2-4ft length on my climb line. Cinch it on the spar when cutting. I'll climb up spurs and come down DdRT with the HH. If I do get stuck lanyard and spike in, free the HH and gaff down a bit. Problem I see with a lowerable basal anchor is dragging all that rope over more pitch.


...and welcome!
 
  • Thread Starter Thread Starter
  • #7
Welcome to the TreeHouse, Chris! :beer:

Don't be shy about filling out your profile...
Ok I'll get on over there and bore all of you with my personal info!

Do you guys have any techniques to keeping the pitch off the line in the first place? Can I use my throw line as a guide, running it through some webbing then using a knot on my climbing line that is just big enough to stop the climbing line from going through...but if I tug hard enough the line will go through the webbing, leaving the webbing in the crotch? This sounds like a trick questions but I'm guessing, based on all the tricks I see in this industry, somebody has likely come up with a solution to this problem. For me...as I said before, climbing pines is a necessity...and not a "once in a while" thing. Finding a solution would be HUGE.
c
 
I have a piece of the flexible conduit that I use for crotches in my trees I do not want damaged. Helps keep the rope clean as well. 3/4" conduit. Rope knot will not pass through. Rope slides very easily inside of it.
 
Arbormaster rope seems to work better in the pitch for me. The rough 16 strand surface, the pitch seems to get pushed into the valley of the braids ? I also use large diameter hitch cord(10mm). But I am also using it with the Rope Wrench. I don't know if it will help any with the HH-2 , most of the time when the HH locks up do to pitch its between the carabiner and HH body and you just have to stand on your foot ascender, move it up the line to free it up and repeat.
 
OH, and welcome to the Tree House! Also remember sound carries more when your screaming and cursing stuck 100 ft up a tree!
 
  • Thread Starter Thread Starter
  • #12
Contract climber with their own gear? ;)

I wish that was an option right now..but I do love climbing! I would have never discovered how cool this is if it wasn't for the lack of options with tree climbing being only option.

Sincerely guys, thanks for the warm welcome. All of you. I have been on many forums and have never received this before. Of course the forums were not for Arborculture. The norm is usually larger than life egos, insulting and throwing people under the bus...this is a very nice change.

I'm sure I may know some of you...not personally but from reading and watching your post and videos. So thanks for all the media! With it and the help from some pros as to how to get started I'm not sure where I'd be with climbing.

Hey TreeStuff.com...if you're listening...every purchase receipt should contain a link to this forum.

OH, and welcome to the Tree House! Also remember sound carries more when your screaming and cursing stuck 100 ft up a tree!

Ha! lol good one. For me...the one thing I do know and have is radio comms up there. It's a shame after sewing Velco onto my Weaver chest harness (for the speaker/mic) that I'll likely have to find another solution for this after I find my new method of tending...but thanks to you guys I have a few more options to try.

Man I'm getting long winded again! I just want to acknowledge everybody.

Raj

I use the HH to make a second lanyard, so there is minimal pitch at the 2-4ft length on my climb line. Cinch it on the spar when cutting. I'll climb up spurs and come down DdRT with the HH. If I do get stuck lanyard and spike in, free the HH and gaff down a bit. Problem I see with a lowerable basal anchor is dragging all that rope over more pitch.


...and welcome!

Yeah the lower-able basal anchor makes the rope a mess but at least I got down. I'm not really cutting anything down just pruning. I just made an air launcher for a Stein 14oz throw bag. I have found time and time again that getting up into a 100 foot White Pine and NOT hitting the million branches on the way up using the manual method isn't working. The air launcher allows me to aim it (a little help from a Red Dot site thanks to Tom Huffman's idea) and hit a high TIP point the first time. If I have to re-establish a higher TIP at least I'm close. My point is that I don't have to spend too much time dragging my rope on everything as I don't need go anywhere but to the top...for the most part.
 
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  • #14
That's a great idea! Hey Nick!
Thanks. I'm glad I could be the one to contribute!

Yeah this forum is HUGE for guys like me. I looked in my state of Rhode Island and couldn't find any pros that do tree work using rope access. I'm sure they're here but I couldn't find any. Being connected to you guys is a big deal to me. So thanks.
 
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  • #16
Thanks...I feel like putting on some plaid...pull up a rocking chair at the fireplace, getting a cup of coffee and smoking a Gandalf pipe. It's starting to feel like home here already. Except for one thing...where's my dog, Tungsten? "Tungsten!" Ah there he is.View attachment 73837
 
Hey, soup-n-sandwich! (Is it ok if I just call you Chris?) In an earlier post you said "For me...the one thing I do know and have is radio comms up there. It's a shame after sewing Velco onto my Weaver chest harness (for the speaker/mic) that I'll likely have to find another solution for this after I find my new method of tending...but thanks to you guys I have a few more options to try."

I just wanted to foot stomp the idea that you DO NOT have to abandon your Weaver chest harness, and all of the work you've already put into it so far. All you need to do is buy that small sewing tool I showed you earlier, along with some 1" wide tubular webbing, and wrap one end of the webbing around the rear of your existing harness, and stitch it up. Bring the other end up and over your right shoulder and cut it off long enough to tie some knots into it. Tie it around a clevis, and you are back in business.

Watch my video again and pause it when you get to a part that shows the position of my over the shoulder clevis, just to get an idea of what I'm talking about.

That's about all I have for now.

Tim
 
  • Thread Starter Thread Starter
  • #24
Thanks Rich. I just learned that term today. All this time I've never heard of it. Sorry for missing the reference.

I gotcha Tim. Thanks for all the vital info. So far so good but I'll know further once I get the knee ascender connected and the rope bridge were it should be.
I'll check out the video again. The video doesn't do it justice. Trying to do that one handed wasn't easy and I think it may have taken away from some of the content. I got the point now though!.

Oh, yeah of course you can just call me Chris...yup.
 
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