SRT to DRT in the tree?

Broncman

Treehouser
Joined
Jul 24, 2016
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92
Location
Western North Carolina
How do you do it? I will be getting the HH2 later this month. I climbed into the tree yesterday SRT with the GriGri2 and switched over to DRT to work. It was a pain. In the butt. After I got my lanyard set, I ended up removing the base anchor and finished up DRT.

What is a effective way of switching over without using 2 ropes?
 
HH makes a trouble free transition, but why not work the tree SRT? It might take a bit, but it does become easy. Just remember your grippy gloves, night and day working SRT. Since good 24 strand rope is a bit pricey up here I use an economical 16 strand DdRT as a second climb line to get me around a wide spreading canopy.
 
If you can't isolate a TIP and no one is around to untie your base anchor you can midline in a pulley or use a cammed ascender with a quick link or a roller carabiner to give you 3:1, even easier than ddrt. You can move the cammed ascender around with you. If you Tip tie a pulley make sure the tail does not get away from you and you have enough rope in the system to reach the ground if need be. But you will probably find it is just easier getting around srt.
 
When I first tried SRT I thought I would be switching over to DdRT to work the tree.
Never happened.

I do use my long lanyard in a DdRT setup, so it is useful for that 2:1 advantage to pull up to another branch or limbwalking.
But my main line is SRT, Tachyon with HH.
 
If you can isolate the branch then do a similar tie off as photo above with your friction hitch ready to go under this system on your harness, just leave a short tail at the top.. You can then get to the tip SRT then easily disconnect and swap.

Same principle if you base tie but you need a ground person (which you should have anyhow) to untie.

HH2 and rope wrench are great to be able to switch back to set mid canopy srt by isolating with your standing line anywhere you are in the tree, then descend srt, to where you need to work, easy climb back up and with back. That way if you need to go over/around limbs you only have the friction on the hitch until you ddrt again.

As mentioned though SRT is easier in most situations and if you used it for 2 weeks exclusively, you'd rarely switch back.
 
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I got my CT simple ascender yesterday to finish up my frog system. Petzal hand ascender with foot loop and safety lanyard to my saddle, CT ascender to rope bridge for second safety and a CT foot ascender. To descend, just going to add the GriGri midline and remove the CT ascenders. Used the GriGri 2 in a RADS setup and not crazy about it.

Was all set to get a HH2 and had to dip into my play fund to repair my crawler. Got a few side jobs on some tall roofs that will hopefully pan out. Then I may do the HH
 
When i did it like that,
Might not want to climb to tie in point for change over.
.
Would SRT on Running DBY (Double Bowline w/Yosemite Tie Off),
that had a carabiner with rigging line on it( or short utility rope depending on work etc.)
.
Might start work 20' below TIP(Tie IN Point);
giving plenty of support angle for branch walks w/o such high a climb.
Get to top of climb,
lanyard in for change over,
maybe extra rigging sling/krab as safety and balance.
.
Pull SRT Running DBY open with rigging line, down to me.
clip rig line to belt or throw into position w/steel krab as weight.
Tie in to DdRT.
.
Play/descend on retrievable / dbld. line.
 
if you can isolate, send a running bowline up. frog walk or rope walk up, using your hitch climber set up in the place of a chest ascender, as your chest attachment point (only for ascent, do not decent on your hitch without adding an SRT device or creating additional friction). ascend, reach your TIP.
if you can not isolate, depending on the branching structure, you might able to send up a running bowline anyway, ascend up to where the bowline hits the first branch preventing isolation, lanyard in, untie it, pass it around the offending branch, retie bowline and repeat until you reach the intended TIP.
 
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