Monkey Beaver Saddle

I made an August Video so awesome. Love the saddle took it for a test spin this eve and really enjoyed it. I think the leg pads might be added soon.
 
My thoughts on the Monkey Beaver so far... and some adjustable bridge experimentation

I hope you guys are ready for Thanksgiving. I'm enjoying some time off and figured I'd chip in on my Monkey Beaver experience so far. I wouldn't call this post a real review or anything. Instead I'm just going to ramble on about my thoughts with the saddle and a few things I've tweaked on mine. I've had the saddle for a few weeks now and have had a chance to thoroughly test it out. The condensed version is that I love the saddle and it's a huge improvement over any other saddle I've ever used (disclaimer! I've never spent any time in a treemotion).

I'll go ahead and start with a few criticisms.

  • First, the layout is solid, but it's not particularly modular. The chainsaw is designed to hang on the right and the gear is designed to hang on the left. If you're one of the <1% that likes to hang your saw on the left, this probably isn't the saddle for you. Even though I'm left handed, I've always stowed gear with my right and I'm having to retrain my hands to switch that job.
  • I'm not a fan of the giant monkey beaver decals (Sorry, August :P), but I really don't care enough to do anything about it.
  • There wasn't a really easy way to attach my handsaw belt loop. I like my handsaw on the left and ended up shoving it up the left side caritool slot and securing it with some throwline (you can kind of see it in one of the pictures). There might be a better way. I don't know.
This has nothing to do with the saddle, but while I'm on this subject. Why doesn't Silky make a left handed replacement scabbard for their popular curved saws! Currently I use one of their straight saws because the scabbard is symmetrical. Somebody, get on that for me :thumbup:

Basically, there's not much bad to say about the saddle. I've got all my gear setup where I'm really really happy with the placement of everything. My gear pouch is secured nice and snug up to the saddle and my handsaw is happily located where I want it to be. As everyone has said, the big gear D-rings are great and they are probably what I like most about the saddle. I expect that future saddles will begin to mimic this method of gear storage shortly. A fear I have now is that some idiot will use the gear D's for life support, hurt himself, and prematurely end this excellent innovation. I've always loved the ISC buckles and a big reason why I never bought a treemotion-light was because of those buckles.

So I got this double lanyard system for about half off on Luke's floor. After some minor modifications, I've gotten to where I really like using it. One problem I had on my old saddle is that with the carabiner and both snaps, it got a little busy around my side D's. With the Monkey Beaver saddle, I clip the snaps onto the front-most gear D and it keeps everything nice and tidy. Basically, the saddle is great 5/5 stars!

20161123_163737.jpg




The other thing I wanted to talk about was adjustable bridges. I got it into my head that I want to try an adjustable bridge. I fooled around with an old steel core lanyard adjuster to try it out, but then I came up with this.

20161123_163339.jpg


I took some 10mm Ocean Poly and used it to tie a schwabisch. The tail of the Ocean Poly goes through the original bridge hole and the tail of the Arbormaster runs through the remaining hole in the friction plate. The schawbisch seems to fit the space nicely and has some resistance that it doesn't get accidentally tended by the primary life support ring too much.

20161123_163413.jpg

I think I've got it dialed in nicely. If I extend all the way, I can still reach my favorite climbing systems. If I shift my weight and force the primary tie in ring into the schwabisch, it can only slip to the length that is my preferred working bridge length.

20161123_164001.jpg

20161123_164024.jpg


I've never used an adjustable bridge before, but this seems like a pretty solid way to try it out. I'd like to go on, but at this point, I'm pretty tired of typing. If anyone has any suggestions, ideas, or if you think I'm about to do something stupid; please chime in. I haven't cut any of my ropes to length yet so there is still time for alteration.
 
Uh oh...I'm one of those <1%ers. An outlier.
has always seemed natural motion to lift the saw off my saddle with my left hand and start it with my right.
 
The disadvantage of a hitch.... hold on, I forgot my manners… Thank you for this thorough post Hunnicutt. I will comment more later. I appreciate your post. The disadvantage of a hitch on the bridge like that is when you twist a hitch takes up too much room and is actuated by your movement. Short compact mechanical adjustable bridge is the ticket.
 
Thank you Jerry. What a cool Life I've had to hear something like that from you. Not trying to make awkward glorifications or anything. Just trying to say what I mean plainly.
 
Uh oh...I'm one of those <1%ers. An outlier.
has always seemed natural motion to lift the saw off my saddle with my left hand and start it with my right.

Uh oh, may have underestimated the number of left hangers ;) Either way, I wanted to make it clear that this saddle's main chainsaw attachment is setup for the conventional side.

It's better to be a snowflake than melt into the mud puddle, Pelorus!
 
The disadvantage of a hitch.... hold on, I forgot my manners… Thank you for this thorough post Hunnicutt. I will comment more later. I appreciate your post. The disadvantage of a hitch on the bridge like that is when you twist a hitch takes up too much room and is actuated by your movement. Short compact mechanical adjustable bridge is the ticket.

Hey my pleasure, August. My name's Kyle. I wouldn't compliment the saddle unless I meant it.

Right, I noticed that about the hitch taking up too much space immediately. I tried to setup everything to keep my hitch as short as possible. Obviously there will be the occasional 'accidental actuation.' If I'm worried about it during a cut I can always tie a quick overhand knot in the bridge at the right length.
Anyways, I'm with you. Mechanical is the way to go. I'm just not ready to choose which device I want and I suspect that the device that I would really like is not on the market yet. This way, I can fool around with an adjustable bridge and see if I like it enough to invest further.
 
Hey my pleasure, August. My name's Kyle. I wouldn't compliment the saddle unless I meant it.

Right, I noticed that about the hitch taking up too much space immediately. I tried to setup everything to keep my hitch as short as possible. Obviously there will be the occasional 'accidental actuation.' If I'm worried about it during a cut I can always tie a quick overhand knot in the bridge at the right length.
Anyways, I'm with you. Mechanical is the way to go. I'm just not ready to choose which device I want and I suspect that the device that I would really like is not on the market yet. This way, I can fool around with an adjustable bridge and see if I like it enough to invest further.

Perfect refreshingly sane reasoning...and safety approved even...
 
Kyle, I saw an adjustable bridge with a 6 wrap prussic with 6mm vectran as the cordage, it was pretty slick and a good bit smaller than the one pictured.
 
I have two Sugois...don't seem "huge" at all. Very good saws. Th inward facing "tip-knife blade" works well with vines or to hook a rope or limb that is just out of reach.
 
Merle, thank you! Now I'm stuck sitting here trying to decide which one I want. They are both monster sized saws, but I'm leaning towards the Ibuki

Try them in cuts first if at all possible. I bought the Ibuki first because of seeing Jerry B use them so effectively in his DVD series. When I went to use it myself I found the saw to catch in the cuts far too much to be enjoyable. (Maybe I apply less power in starting cuts or something.) I used a smaller finer tooth Silky for pruning work and then I was around Lawrence Schultz and asked to try his Sugoi. It was the perfect meld of aggressive teeth and smooth starting for me.

Funny when looking the Sugoi tooth patterns up to buy one I think I found it has the same number of teeth per inch. Only thing I can figure is the handle comes in at a slightly different angle to the blade and my casual down pressure is changed as a result.
 
Caution: The 'hook' Gary is talking about in post above is on the shorter (320?) Sugoi. That scabbard is not 'ambidextrous', it is curved and directional.
 
Anyone have any new reviews on the Monkey Beaver saddle? I'm thinking about upgrading from my Cougar. I don't want to be doomed to those expensive Weaver rope bridges from here on. I'm trying to decide between the Monkey Beaver and the TreeMotion. Christmas is coming up and I'm might be able to talk the wife into letting me splurge. I've read great things about both. But haven't been able to try either one on yet. I upgraded tk the Cougar from the Weaver double D a few years ago. So anything will be an improvement.
 
I had asked about that and it wasn't recommend. What would be wrong with using a rope for the bridge? Are the rings sized ok as to prevent slip through? I would be comfortable doing it but I didn't want to pull a no no and not even know it.
 
We have had a few threads on this. I flew a rope bridge out of Poison Ivy after I retired my factory bridge. I did not Liger it. I just made my bridge the desired length with stopper knots. Double over hand in my case. Easy peasy. Just inspect regular as you would any life support system or bridge. I used Bat Plates on mine. But I also used a large ring. It's all about preference. Maybe I can find the thread again.
 
Back
Top