Stihl MS 192 TC questions.

flashover604

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Hi all. I happened across a Stihl MS 192 TC with two 63 PM 50 chains, 14", one still new in the box. It also came with the plastic bar scabbard and two sets of files. I got it for a pretty decent price and thought I'd use it and keep it or sell it if I didn't like it. I've read up on it a little and understand it to be a homeowner saw vs. a professional saw. I've also seen several people recommending the muffler porting mod. I understand how to do the actual porting of the muffler itself, and I know that the carburetor will need adjusted if the muffler is opened up. I was wondering what you guys thought of the saw, what you thought of the mid, and how you'd recommend adjusting the carb?

I've read that some people adjust them to the ragged edge and sacrifice longevity for a little more power/speed. If I can get a little power gain without the saw eating itself I'll go ahead and do the work.

Thanks in advance!

Zach
 
No complaints here. I did the muffler mod, still pretty quiet, runs great, stays running, always easy start. The specs say its 1.5 pounds lighter than the 201 with fluids but it feels more like 5 pounds lighter, same bar and chain on both. I would trade it for a 150 though. Do not be surprised if you end up having to lean the high speed adj. after the muffler mod to get it to run where it should, but I would not run it lean for supposed extra power, just going to cook the powerhead.
 
The muffler mod isn't an easy undertaking, I'll forewarn you. Take the side cover off, you pull the two torx screws and open up the stamped rectangular port on the outside of the muffler with a drill bit, I think? 3/8", but you only want to open about 80% of it. Then take the screen off the old port and braze it over the old opening. I then take the deflector and cover the new port opening. This helps some, but it's still going to melt some of the side cover, no getting around that.
Adjusting the carb, a pair of side cutters, nail clippers and a file or coarse sand paper. Get to where you can see the carb adjustment screws, I forget what all you have to take off, but you can get to see them, then notice the plastic on them, one is red, the other blue if I recall, they will have a tit sticking off them that limits how much you can rotate them. You have to cut, sand, file, whatever works, these down so you can freely turn the adjustment screws.
Once you've done the muffler mod you will NEED to richen the H side up, otherwise you will burn it up with a quickness!
Is it worth it? I dunno, it's never going to be a 200t, but it does wake it up quite a bit, maybe half of a 200t? Quite a bit more power than stock, but it's not easy to get it there.
Hope that's clear as mud and helps some.
 
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When you adjust the High side, what do you listen for? I assume that this is richening the high rpm circuit in the carb.
 
All I did was remove the screen and run premix synthetic fuel. I notice a difference. Don't know if I did anything wrong by that.

Cheapest 200 around here is $540 in Ottawa and they won't ship.
 
When you adjust the High side, what do you listen for? I assume that this is richening the high rpm circuit in the carb.

I listen for a slight bluber out of the cut. Many call it "four stroking" where it sounds like it's running smoother than it should almost. It's hard to explain, then bury it in a cut and see how the power band is. Usually you will need to lean it just about 1/16 of a turn and it's happy after you hear the bluber. And yes, it's the high side that needs more fuel as you are moving more air through the engine, it's going to need more fuel/lube to keep from burning up. You may need to adjust the low side a bit as well to get it to transition from idle to full throttle.
Where's Al at? He's good at explaining this concept, I suck at it!
 
Another great mod is advance the timing a bit. That is also very easy and makes a huge difference. Let me know if you are interested and I will post up more explicit instructions.
 
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Magnum, is this the mod where you file off a small bit of the keyway on the flywheel? Effectively rotating it approximately 1/4" counterclockwise at the fins? That's a pretty neat idea as well. It seems like you could remove a little, put it back together and try it, take it back apart and do it again. As long as you don't go to far and get too close to top dead center.

As for the carburetor, I haven't been able to find where it's an m-tronic. I found in the online manual where they describe adjustment using the H and L screws.
 
You are correct just extract and advance good to go. Carbuertor should be easy to tell does it have H and L screws on the right side or holes for them at least. I didn't think they made a mtronic 192?
 
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I have another question for you guys. I've used this saw half a dozen times or so and it'll run great for ten-fifteen minutes, then it won't. It'll start, but to get it to cut I have to kind of tap the throttle to bring the rpms up in stages. I can't just squeeze it or it'll die. Once it's at full throttle it'll stay there half the time, or die as soon as the chain hits the wood. Any ideas?
 
Sounds like it needs more food.
Adjusting carbs is a artform and the newer saws is a bit different. H and L work together, I think you need a tad more on both.
 
Mine's been acting up, had it 4 or so years. Plug, filters, little carb adjustments, trufuel and a good blowdown seems to cure it bogging down, but not for long. An echo cs3000 can outcut it at the moment. Becoming a PITA.
 
If it's a TC wouldn't the carb adjust itself? I thought that was what the m-tronic carb did.



No. The 192 is not strato...

I hate the EZ start homeowner nonsense. After one flew apart, I bought two complete starter assemblies without the EZ BS from an arbsite buy and sell fella. Mpore betta! and a couple ounces lighter! A muff mod is all 192's need to perk right up. They're gutless stock.

Raj, If you've used it a lot, it might be wearing out. 192's aren't designed to last as many hours as a pro 200/201
 
I don't think I used it a lot. I did clean up the carb this afternoon. Peped up for sure. Hope it lasts. 200's go for about $500 - $650 CAD used around here (that I've seen), 201's are about $750 CAD new. Probably I'll go check out an Echo 355.
 
I have another question for you guys. I've used this saw half a dozen times or so and it'll run great for ten-fifteen minutes, then it won't. It'll start, but to get it to cut I have to kind of tap the throttle to bring the rpms up in stages. I can't just squeeze it or it'll die. Once it's at full throttle it'll stay there half the time, or die as soon as the chain hits the wood. Any ideas?

I agree to make it slightly richer on the low screw, adjusting idle.

I use a ported 192 and a standard 200. On most woods up to a 6" cut I'll choose the 192 all day every day. For the lighter weight and ease moving about the tree it's far less fatiguing. For bigger cuts then the 200t. Saying that I've removed big trees with the 192 and swapped out to a 261 or 362 to finish the stem.

A bigger saw might cut slightly faster but if you are swinging it around all day, then the smaller saw sometimes actually pays.
 
...A bigger saw might cut slightly faster but if you are swinging it around all day, then the smaller saw sometimes actually pays.

Have you tried a modded 150 yet? Great little saw for swinging around.
 
Took apart my carb and cleaned it up, my 192t is back to it's old self. Not bogging down in a cut anymore..... so far.
 
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