Chip box build ?

I like the tall tailgates for holding in a lot of chips.
 
Nice job. Looking forward to see it painted.

I too dig tall gates. Its amazing how much chip my little truck holds with the 36" tailgate.

Whats the gvw on that truck?
 
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  • #106
I have it plated at 16k. If my math is right I should get 16 yards but that is squared off so maybe 13-14 yards in reality.
 
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  • #107
Yeah I wanted tall gates. I think it's more of over compensating and repressing the memory of just needing a half a yard more capacity to finish out the day.
 
Since you're fabbing it yourself, it might be easy and worth having some sort of removable/ hinged cover, making the whole thing lockable, for various uses.

Any value in anchor points welded on? I have a ring that I've used with MA for loading something, maybe my mini-bucket, when I didn't have the mini at home. I have used it as a high speedline anchor point. Just a thought.

oh, and while your fabricating stuff, do you have chock holders. My truck had old snaps welded under the bed, I don't know if they were there for chocks or what.

Anchor rings on the top, for ladders or whatever you might need to strap down?

anchor points for tying down a machine?
 
I sent this to Rajan via FB earlier when I was in town. YouTube takes forever to upload from there.
I'll put it here in case anyone can use some ideas.
<iframe width="420" height="315" src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/i4eHXvgDtew" frameborder="0" allowfullscreen></iframe>
 
I'm wondering. Especially with buds picture of the aluminum gate with just the pin on the bottom. Does the weight of
The chip flex out the top of the gate?

One time while driving home empty, my pin must have snapped. I pulled into my driveway and heard a Big Bang. Thought nothing. Walked up the driveway and saw red plastic on the ground. Turns out the inertia of the turn opened the gate and swung into Ashly's car. I almost fainted. Hit it absolutely perfect so only the taillight needed fixing. I could not believe it. Would have wrecked the back end of the car. My fault though, hard to type but the emtpy down pressure of the gate was all on the pin. I ended up putting a spacer under the gate so the pressure was transferred to the body where the gate rests. That with the fact it was a stainless pin, has no sheer strength. So much went thru my head after like pedestrians, motorcycles, I am still a nervous wreck over it lol
 

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  • #112
Since you're fabbing it yourself, it might be easy and worth having some sort of removable/ hinged cover, making the whole thing lockable, for various uses.

Any value in anchor points welded on? I have a ring that I've used with MA for loading something, maybe my mini-bucket, when I didn't have the mini at home. I have used it as a high speedline anchor point. Just a thought.

oh, and while your fabricating stuff, do you have chock holders. My truck had old snaps welded under the bed, I don't know if they were there for chocks or what.

Anchor rings on the top, for ladders or whatever you might need to strap down?

anchor points for tying down a machine?

Chock holders are in the plans and tie down rings are as well but I haven't made them yet.
 
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  • #113
I sent this to Rajan via FB earlier when I was in town. YouTube takes forever to upload from there.
I'll put it here in case anyone can use some ideas.
<iframe width="420" height="315" src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/i4eHXvgDtew" frameborder="0" allowfullscreen></iframe>

I did see that on FB and Thank You again! I really wanted bullet hinges which are about the same thing you have going on but the set back of the existing "pillars" and swing wouldn't allow those hinges to work.
 
I have since added a spring to the mix which puts just enough tension on the pin you keep it down without making it hard to open. The gates do see some pressure with an overflowing load, but I haven't had any trouble with bending or opening during travel.
 
If you anticipate the occasional climb in and out, have you thought about a step and handle? Maybe just some weld criss-cross the top of the pintle gate/ latch. I step on mine a lot, but is is flat topped and a bit rough, giving grip. I can reach the top of my box, where there is enough of a hand-hold for me to climb up and down. Climbing onto/ off of the top of the box might be a consideration. I put ladders on the top of my box. A step welded on top of the sloping, red original bed, in front of the doors, and a piece of bent rebar type of handle/ step up high on the inside wall might prevent a slip.

I've seen how helpful it can be just to have a step on the outside of my trailer, which is a much shorter potential fall.
 
Looks good. Being able to weld and fab for yourself is a great thing. A lot of those "comforts" that Sean wrote about are great suggestions. Owning a welder gives you the ability to add them when you desire.
 
I have steps on the side of the larger dump. Stehanson (Steve) added a 2' top to the back gate making the trailer 4' sides all round. Front has a deflector plate a foot higher. So five there. Anyway, nice to have when clambering into the back to set the tarp or what not. I also carry my orchard ladder a lot in it. SO I can get in with out opening. Little angle iron in the right places for steps. He threw a couple little beads on top of the steps for traction.
 
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  • #123
Adding a step is a good idea you can get up in there now with a bit of a high step but it's not all that easy.
 
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