Clearcutting

Gypo

TreeHouser
Joined
Dec 22, 2013
Messages
148
Location
Western Oregon
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My partner and I in a decent stand of second growth.
 
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  • #2
Sorry bout the double post, got it figured out now. Turns out I sometimes can't follow directions... on how to post properly.
 
Now, that was just beautiful. Those saws sounded super good... especially the 390. Did Jack (hotsaws101) port it? Who ported your buddy's Stihl? Where did you get that Sugi Hara?

Nice stand of Fir... any backleaners at all?
 
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  • #10
I haven't counted the rings, but I'd guess age around 50. Fifty years ago a lot of the timber was not replanted and so was natural regen. I don't know for sure that is the case in this stand, but from the abundance of maple would guess it was not planted.

This 390 is stock, except for the muffler port and an unlimited coil and carb. I did these myself.

Partners 660 was modded by a local guy in Florence. Its got muffler ports and was hopped up.
 
Thanks Gyp. Kind of a dumb question... I just think that those 390's sound so perfect. Did you buy an after-market coil, or somehow rig it up yourself? Oh, and... where did you order the Sugi Hara from?
 
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  • #12
New 390's come with a blue coil that limits saw rpms. I have a few older black coils around from older saws, the black coils are unlimited. I have heard that you can buy the black coils again, but don't know first hand.

I also removed all the stops on the carb adjustment screws, and took off the outside dawg. I shake my head everytime I buy a new saw and get to work on it before it will run how it should.

Note- Here in Oregon in the summer time these mods are illegal due to fire danger, so I have to remove them ie. put stock muffler and ignition back on.

The bars we got from a local source, a guy who knows a guy thing. This source seems to have dried up... I do see that treestuff seems to be stocking them now though.

Oh, and on the trees that lean back. There are always a few. These we usually just swing, or often push. Wedging is usually last choice because it's a lot of work and energy, but sometimes it is necessary. I've even been known to cut a hole out above a tree that leans back really hard and then fall it up the hill.
 
Gyp why do you take off the outside dawg? What is the advantage with those sugi hara bars? You mention swinging trees, and hotsaws 101 was mentioned; he has a vid said to show swinging a tree 180*, do you think that is possible?

Thanks.
 
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  • #14
It is my opinion that outside dawgs are not needed. One is good, two is redundant. What does it really do you for you? I do leave them on my big saw, but that's the exception.

The bars are lighter than your standard Oregon bar. The steel is also harder, which means less dressing and longer life. The white spots you see on the bars are actually plastic of some kind.

Yes it is possible to swing a tree 180 degrees. Its all about momentum. Its far easier to swing one 120 degrees however, and you better have a wedge handy in case you need to wedge it over onto your kicker or Dutchman, to start the tree around. The first thing you have to know though is where the tree actually leans, this is the part I see most people fail.

My opinion- I see a lot of posts here about kickers, Dutchmen, Coos Bay cuts, etc. While it is fun to talk about, I don't see the need for "trick" cuts in treework around buildings or other liabilities. When I cut around houses we straight fall, wedge, or most times pull, everything. I wouldn't dream of swinging a tree over a house when I can put a line in it. IMO these types of cuts are to save work in an area where shit going wrong won't hurt anything but your ego. YMMV
 
Good answers!!

I think an outside dawg is key when you are flushing a stump with good flair to it, often the inside dawg doesn't contact the wood because of the angle of flair, and cutting with no dawg dogged in is NG imo, even with a good sharp chain.
 
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  • #16
I see your point about the outside dawg. Fortunately I rarely have to saw a stump off, especially one with flutes or flair.
 
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