Tips for Drilling a long brace-rod (4'+) hole.

SouthSoundTree-

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I have a large doug-fir that a customer wants cabled. Big inclusion, probably 4'+.

Plenty high TIP available.

I was thinking of having two "false springboard notches" fabricated and strapping them to a tree, a la a fixed bollard ratchet strap, then building a working platform, a la 150', and still 7' through, but way, way smaller scale, and no cast on a broken foot.


This is a job for an aerial lift, since its 30' up, next to the driveway, but would rather put some money into gear that I can keep.


Anyone know where to get long 1/2" bits? I don't want to get one fabricated, if avoidable.

I have a half-inch drive, corded, right angle drill, and power available, and a 29" bit to start the hole.

I'd like to also figure out a good way to square up for a such a long hole, for accuracy.
 
Sorry. You have to cut the tree down. :lol:

Ok really- here's my advice. First- there was a thread from an ash I bolted a few years ago. There's some GREAT advice in it. I'll see if I can find it and post a link here.

If you need to drill a 4 ft hole, get lots of drill bits. Get a 6" bit, a 12" bit, a 24, a 36 and then the 48. It's hard to control a 4 ft long bit when you're up in a tree. Let the smaller bits start the hole so that the hole will provide the support for you.

Are you using 7/16" rod? Or half inch rod? Have you checked the ISA BMPs? If you go with ½ inch rod, you can get a 9/16" bit 48" long from treestuff for $120 http://www.treestuff.com/store/catalog.asp?category_id=57&item=1130

Bring lube. Seriously...for the bit. I use bar oil (the bio stuff of course!) It makes a HUGE difference in how smoothly the bit runs.

Lemme go find the BMPs...

love
nick
 
You gonna be in Bend this weekend Sean? I have a bracing bit, 48" long, 11/16 diameter and 1/2" chuck you could borrow... Don't over complicate. I feel if you can bore cut a hinge with a saw, you can drill straight through the trunk. I've always just used high tip and lanyard to position accordingly and go to town.
 
No need to invest in ridiculously long drills, just buy extensions.
8574029-23.jpg
 
You gonna be in Bend this weekend Sean? I have a bracing bit, 48" long, 11/16 diameter and 1/2" chuck you could borrow... Don't over complicate. I feel if you can bore cut a hinge with a saw, you can drill straight through the trunk. I've always just used high tip and lanyard to position accordingly and go to town.

This was my thought on it. I wouldn't be building some kind of crazy springboard platform unless you're taking a 7' 150' top or else maybe considering spending the night.
 
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  • #14
Thanks, Ian. Not in the cards this year. I'm on Daddy-duty this year while D's mom is out of town working.

I have to find my BMP. Lots got shuffled in the move. Thanks, Nick.
 
The bad news is, that's not the current BMP.

The goodish news is, the table is the same; now on page 29. Still overkill, but with no science around it, it will probably never change!
 
Yes yes yes on the extensions. The only issue is the need to go with at least 9/16 to get clearance for the extensions.(the attachment end is a bit bulbous) but that route lets you keep going. Even a spade bit and extensions will get it done if you keep backing out to clear chips
 
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  • #18
You gonna be in Bend this weekend Sean? I have a bracing bit, 48" long, 11/16 diameter and 1/2" chuck you could borrow... Don't over complicate. I feel if you can bore cut a hinge with a saw, you can drill straight through the trunk. I've always just used high tip and lanyard to position accordingly and go to town.
This was my thought on it. I wouldn't be building some kind of crazy springboard platform unless you're taking a 7' 150' top or else maybe considering spending the night.

I've never overthought or over-complicated stuff. ;):|:

I've tumbled this around a bit in my head... IMG_20151128_133817579[1].jpg






IMG_20151128_134058237[1].jpg

Three pieces of 2x4 tubing (accepts wooden 2x4) welded in the x,y,z axes (plural of axis) for the 4 corners of firewood racks.

I use the black garbage can to represent the trunk. I figure I can attach 2 brackets about 1-1.5' apart, with a trucker's strap, a la fixed bollards, and then lay a 2x6 across to stand on. It will be like working on the ground.

I just need to notch the 2x6 on the one end, and cut it to about 12" long for the vertical.



When you edit, and add another picture using the Uploader, it comes out like this...

This is the reverse angle, showing the vertical pocket. I need to use a notched 2x6, like the picture above.
 

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