Chain runs at idle.

Starting then leaning out with throttle could well be a hose or filter, but it is often a result of a stiff diaphragm.
 
Again.. I would suggest just putting the pre EPA carb on it. They are only going to be available until the first of the year. You can order them right at the Stihl dealer and mine screams. I think it was about 90 something.
PN 1129 120 0650
 
I took the starter off and low and behold, the wire connector had come off of the coil or whatever that black thing is. I squished the connector down with a pliers until it stuck on there pretty good and put it back on. Thanks guys. Saw is all better, now for the other 200t. It's been so long since I used it I can't remember what the problem was. It won't start now. I think it's a fuel issue. I dribbled a little gas in the carb and it fired a couple of times. Then nothing. I tried it again, but nothing this time.

Fwiw, rather than pouring it into the carb I have had better luck soaking the air filter with gas and starting it at full throttle. Less likely to flood, you get some atomization and a longer run time to prime the carb
 
In addition to all this good advice ,check the pulse line. These darn things some how come off and can make a saw run squirrely. The line is under the handle where the carb is located , it hooks up to a little nipple in the handle which connects it to the intake manifold pulse hole in the rubber intake boot which connects to the pulse hole in the body of the carb. It is very dark under the handle and hard to see the darn thing so your going to need a flashlight or better yet one of those mini mag flashlights. This has happened more than once to me and I always seem to forget to attach the darn thing if for some reason I have to take the handle off. A pair of small needle nose pliers and a flashlight will do the trick if this is the problem.
 
Or just bring it with you if you are coming out for Christmas, I'll help you look it over and have a great shop we can get it into if it comes to that.
 
Fwiw. I would take off the carb, take off the needle seat, side cover. Clean with carb cleaner. ( cheaper the better). all the orifices, then reinstall. Do the same on the pulse side also. But, make sure on the pulse side diaphragms back on the same way they come off , there is a lot of monkey motion going on under the pulse side cover with all the metered orifices.
 
Don't Know Holemtree, but its def, a carb issue. Atleast in my experience. Fixed my neighbors saw the other day it had clear plastic in the needle seat side, still to this day don't know were it came from. But, now it runs like a scolded dog. Finally, when I was done I was so aggravated with that saw I let it bounce off the rev limiter for about 10 sec straight. (made me feel better.)
 
Monkey motion?
:D

Term I use in aviation when I have to rig flight controls and there is cables and pulleys everywhere, and the new guy ask's question after question. I say, " see all that monkey motion the cable runs through that and out to the aileron from the yoke's. I have a few of them, My favorite one is. "Science Fu&king"....You see that in aviation a lot to...Basically, when someone over thinks things. That's what I call though.
 
No no no Holemtree, I was just telling ya'll my other sayings I have when it comes to stuff, Nothing directed at you at all bud...:D
 
Term I use in aviation when I have to rig flight controls and there is cables and pulleys everywhere, and the new guy ask's question after question. I say, " see all that monkey motion the cable runs through that and out to the aileron from the yoke's. I have a few of them, My favorite one is. "Science Fu&king"....You see that in aviation a lot to...Basically, when someone over thinks things. That's what I call though.

Sounds like you have a lot of FM going on in them there areoplanes!
 
Yea. Some people think it is magic. Lol. No different then working on a car. I Love getting done fixing something then turn to the new guy and say " Thats shits better then factory".
 
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