Rear Mounting My Trailer

brendonv

Tree Hugger
Joined
Mar 6, 2005
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Oxford, Connecticut
So ive been seriously thinking about rear mounting my log trailer. This winter i HAVE to do major work to it anyway, such as rebuilding both outer rails, with stake pockets, and a rub rail. Also thinking about a sliding winch track. A partial mesh floor and partial sides for hauling small random rounds. Also add a operators platform that twists with the boom.

So ill be way far into it, im thinking about why not just chop off the simple mount it has, and glue her out back.

Rear mounts are more versatile, ill get an extra 90* of rotation from how i use it now. This would keep me off the grass and easy to load on many job sites.

No, i will not do the final welding myself on structural members. Ill tack everything with tig. Leave the finish structural work for a mobile pro.

This is my trailer, and this is my inspiration.

Anyone forsee any problems i dont see? Ill obviously test tongue weight, possibly move axels. But based off what i see on other that might not be nessesary. I will be limited to hauling over 16' logs, but i cut firewood to 9' or 6'.
 

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As long as you can get a good estimate of what it's going to do to tongue weight, I don't see any problem. If you've got a tig, that means you've got stick, right? Just get some good dry 7018 and have at it.:/: Those Metavics are nice. I borrowed one once that was set up for horses. It was an off road only deal. Really nice.
 
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  • #6
Yes willie, a little more than 360 actually. Not continuous though. Ill get 180* each side. The driver side would have another 20-30*. Right now i use it at 90* as i dont like grabbing logs nesr the back of the truck
 
Gerry , You mean back when two of us hoisted up the end with a log carrier and somebody backed the trailer under it?:lol:
 
For the amount of work you say it needs, I'd put it on Craigslist and put the proceeds toward a new one. Stuff like that always makes good money used over here. Unless you have loads of time on your hands of course.
 
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For the amount of work you say it needs, I'd put it on Craigslist and put the proceeds toward a new one. Stuff like that always makes good money used over here. Unless you have loads of time on your hands of course.

Its welding work, id say two weekends and can have everything mocked up. Id need another $15k + hanging around to replace it with a new one.
 
Those metavics are really pricey, I got a quote last winter and can't recall the specifics off hand but it was way more than I thought it would be.

Rear mount would be awesome.
 
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Ya they are over 35$ last i check. Nice unit. Buy my god. With what i have into mine, after a rebuild id still be well under 15$

I gotta say after owning one id make sure i wouldn't be without it though.
 
We have a local dealer of Wallenstein products. They have a loader trailer set-up for highway use there that's about 20g Canadian. When I look at it it seems unlikely to me that I would pull the pin on it, even though I'd sure like one.
 
Confirms my thoughts then. When I looked at it I thought, "hmm I could frig this up in no time". Lol.
 
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During my re mount process of the trailer in te coming month, i need to do something regarding hydraulics. The speed is fine, i have a 9hp honda. When booming in fast, with weight in the grapple, you need to sit and wait while the cylinder fills up with fluid, it doesnt supply enouh fluid for the drop. I cant get my head around it, will a bigger engine help? Or change pump?
 
Ours has the same issue with the stick coming down to vertical faster than the pump can refill the cylinder.

One thing I'd like to add to ours is a safety lockout much like an excavator or skidsteer. So easy to lean over the controls getting on or off the seat and do some unintended damage.
 
Seems like a common problem, my Kubota and bucket both do that, Ive had other machines that did it. I just live with it.
 
When you dump the bucket on my Kubota L48, the return flow goes to the pressure side of the cylinder. This almost doubles the dump speed. The only problem is I don't have much down pressure with the bucket. With the bucket flat on the ground, I can't lift the machine up with it, but there isn't really a need for that. I wonder if you could put a diverter valve in the return line from that cylinder and plumb it to the pressure side. Maybe have it spring return with a foot pedal. Step on the pedal when you need the speed, then let up to return to normal operating condition. Actually, it probably wouldn't cost more than about $250 for the valve and some hoses and fittings.
 
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Ive explored this in the past. I bought a flow control valve for the particular valve, but never hooked it up (aka not sure if itd work). My idea was to set it so it macthes the flow coming in. The small honda needs a little work and i wasnt sure if the extra hp would help that issue. Humph
 
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