Piston color

emr

Cheesehead Treehouser
Joined
Nov 5, 2006
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Neenah, Wisconsin
9be83992dd4203941b2d307e3ca96c32.jpg


I don't know if you can tell from the pic but is the brownish tint to this piston normal?
 
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  • #3
Perfect. End of thread I guess. ;-)

Any ideas on why this saw runs like crap and smokes like a champ? It's an almost new MS250. I put a new carb in it thinking that might be it. No difference. It's got the right mix of fuel, clean air filter and new fuel filter and new spark plug.
 
Don't take my words as gospel. I've seen that before in healthy saws, but I'm not a saw mechanic. My answer is "ya". The right answer might be different.
 
Usually this brown, some time sticky stuff comes from oil that could not handle the heat.
Black is next, then stuck ring and possible kaboom...
 
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  • #6
Thanks for all the help. I'm obviously no mechanic either but I'm trying to learn.

This saw is not mine but a friends so I don't know the history or what kind of oil they have used.
I was wondering if he ran it with straight gas. In pretty sure he has motor oil in the bar oil tank.
I played around with the carb and got it running much better.

I really do appreciate the help you guys are giving me.
 
That smoke could be it's a tad rich on the high speed .You might lean it just a fuzz .Keep in mind a little smoke is better than a fried piston .
 
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  • #11
Is it true that you can't and shouldn't adjust the low and high screws without a tachometer? I got it so that it seems to run properly but I just did it by ear. Any pointers would be appreciated.
 
You certainly can set a work saw without a tach. If in doubt pull your plug and check it. If your saw is stock you shouldn't be varying much from the factory settings.
 
Ya, as Squish says, without a tach, but you need to know the sound that you are looking for so that the saw isn't running too lean and can risk damage. There should to be some remaining two stroking sound at max revs (WOT). Also, the adjustment on one needle can affect the other. Adjust from a richer setting to a leaner one. Carb condition can somewhat vary the specs from the factory setting, the general condition of the saw, and your location and season. Some saws the adjust never needs to be touched, others are more temperamental, has been my experience.
 
I have no problem adjusting the old saws by ear. My 346 however makes me wonder if I know what I am doing. I took it to the dealer and he tached it and said you have it perfect.

A lot of new saws have a rev limiter that can sound like 2 stroking when it is cutting out. I think a tach is a good investment these days. I need to just order one instead of thinking about it.
 
This has been a good tach for me for a number of years. http://www.amickssuperstore.com/DTI...chometer_Tach_p/dti tech-tach tt-20k tach.htm

One thing I find with a good tach that takes quick refreshment readings, is that the numbers really jump around. You can pretty much dial in the saw close to what you want, but at any given same carb adjustment, the numbers will jump around a number of hundred rpms different within a few seconds. I've always wondered why that is.
 
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  • #16
I'm starting to feel a bit more confident with my repair on this saw. Thanks.
 
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