Carb adjust

Never blow anything in a carb! Shoot air by it so it suck it out. If cleaning is needed use gas and let it soak.
If there is crap and you spray air or fluid on it you take it in further.

If it is clogged upp, out with welch plug and back flush it. Inside out, not outside in.

Look at the carb, manufacturer and number. Then go to MFG's webpage and find manual on it.

Do it right or you need to do it over again and again.
 
It is the stuff you blast that hurt, not the blast itself.
The crud you think you get out get deeper if you blow it in. If you suck it out it is another matter....
 
Is that from the Kama Sutra, Jay?

It could very well be! Need candles burning, though.

Never read or heard that blowing through could cause damage by moving whatever dirt or what else might be inside. i have read that the blast can damage check valves. I usually give a good shot of air anyway, preceded by cleaner.
 
When you do it enough you see a pattern of stuff gone wrong and why.

Those welsh plugs can be a pain. So trying to avoid getting crap in that you need to get out is far easier than getting carb clean.
Most replace rather than clean...
 
I have a stihl 066 and the carb doesn't seem to be reacting to any adjustments should I try a good cleaning and rebuild or just replace carb. Here's what I've done so far new cylinder piston and rings new coil and cleaned up flywheel and of coarse new plug any recommendations would be greatly appreciated

It's a runner but not happy with it.. it will idle but gotta constantly throttle up to keep it running this thing has been one big pain in the arse.......

Not sure..... the thing is I was able to adjust idle when I rebuilt top end then started to break it in and somewere between break in and cutting wood with it it started to act up now I can turn screws all over the place from 1.5 to 3 turns out and nothings happening even the idle I should be able to set idle up pretty high but nada.......I was thinking fuel pump diagram not pumping enough
Glen, before you tear into the carb and from the rebuild you already did I think you problem could be the crank seals. When doing a rebuild always replace the seals.
The 2 seals are cheap and easy to install, 1/2-1 hour tops. Drive side seal usually wear out first.
I had many saws over the years that I couldn't adjust the carb, put new seals in ...whamo saw runs perfect after.
 
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  • #34
What do you find is the easiest way to remove......small slide Hammer or prying them out
 
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  • #35
Also wondering if the squealing noise I heard after saw shuts down and is sitting there were the seals?
 
What do you find is the easiest way to remove......small slide Hammer or prying them out

Also wondering if the squealing noise I heard after saw shuts down and is sitting there were the seals?
I just pry them out with a thin screwdriver, just be careful not to scratch the magnesium crankcase housing.

That's a good question about the squeal, but probably a noise from the clutch with a coating of crud inside the drum.
 
Carbs can and do go bad for whatever reason I don't know. I have had a few that no matter how much you cleaned it along with new guts and the darn saw still won't run right . I had a few that you would swear were sucking air. A pressure / vac test revealed no internal problems. Stick a known to be good carb on the bad running saw and it runs real good.

This is coming out of left field but I am just curious if it is a good idea if it can be done at all is to boil out a carb to clean it internally. Something along the lines of like a hot plate set on low with some type of cleaning solution. The risk of a fire is great of course. How about the carb itself, could it take the internal expansion? This is something I have thought of but haven't done it. If I did it would definately be outside.
 
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  • #40
Well so far I think there's hope in the near future for 066 just pulled carb from straight carb cleaner bath and was shooting cleaner there are 3 small ports in carb throat one was plugged solid the bath def loosened up the varnish also idle circuit flowed way better after bath waiting on carb kit no guna play around the 5th time around with this ........I really appreciate everybody's help
 
If it was visibly unplugged I bet there is a bunch of crap inside that wish to go out too.

Ultrasonic is good to get the crap to come loose, but it is same problem there to get it out from carb.

The hair thick channels are easily blocked from crap that got loose and travel.
 
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