Small filing tip

Maybe it's a bad habit, but I always file with the thumb of my other hand supporting the cutter, kind of pushing it against the other side of the bar groove to keep it from wiggling.
 
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  • #78
I always file with the thumb of my other hand supporting the cutter, kind of pushing it against the other side of the bar groove to keep it from wiggling.


Try engaging the chain brake to keep the cutter from wiggling...fast and easy.
 
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  • #83
Good point, Al. It's been so long since I've run a saw with no brake that I hadn't considered that.

MB, as I said in the OP, I'm not sure why it works, as you are right, the brake shouldn't tension the chain.
 
I agree .The way I do up over the top and within 4-5 inchs of the engine you don't have much chain to stretch .At least it never gave me any problems .
 
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  • #85
True, close to the engine helps but means more pauses to advance the chain to the next cutter. And close to the engine doesn't help as much for the right hand cutters cuz they can't be accessed as close to the engine. Using the brake allows you to hit about 3 cutters at a time before advancing the chain. FWIW.
 
I prefer advancing the chain for each tooth, keeping my filing position exactly the same for each tooth in order to retain consistency. My body, hands, file and chain tooth are all in the exact same position so it's simple muscle memory and every tooth is treated the same. This makes it so I don't have to 'fix' the chain after several hand filings. I can maintain consistency until the chain is toast.
 
Yep. My hands stay in the same position, and I advance each tooth. Doing that helps me to keep a consistent angle.
 
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  • #89
Good call, Skwerl, re maintaining all potential variables the same. Do you use any filing guides/aids? If no, do all of your chains stay "perfect" or nearly so for their whole working life?

I file freehand about 75% of the time and use a Nordic brand 2-roller thingy periodically the rest of the time to keep me honest.
 
I tried using a file guide once, didn't like it. Once in a while I'll spot inconsistencies (filing too high or too low) and compensate to correct it. But for the most part I can use the chain until it's used up without losing cutting efficiency.
 
i have to admit- every time I see this thread in the list of threads I keep thinking its about a new type of small file for filing just the very tip of the cutter teeth.
 
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  • #92
Nice, Skwerl. Before I started using a guide, I would get certain chains that appeared visually perfect but wouldn't cut perfect: the guide helped me with that problem.
 
I do okay until I hit a nail/metal/whatever and only ruin one side. Then it takes me several filings to get it evened out again. I can generally use a chain until teeth are breaking off. They usually don;t cut real good in big wood, but still cut good for limbing/bucking smaller stuff.
 
I only do maybe three cutters at a time before I advance the chain .Then again I go left right left while most do all of one side then the other .Everydody has their way and what ever works best for you I say .
 
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  • #95
I do okay until I hit a nail/metal/whatever and only ruin one side. Then it takes me several filings to get it evened out again.

Isn't it amazing when you get those chains that look like they would cut horribly due to uneven cutters yet they cut great, for who knows why??
 
They can get screwed up pretty badly by hitting stuff and once filed out they do surprisingly well uneven lengths or no .
 
Maybe we should further break it down and talk about about advancing the chain. I like the advance a number of cutters at a time method, often done by taking the file under the bar and sort of pulling it on the back of a cutter to slide the chain. That way I don't have to move my other stabilizing hand. A naturally evolved method. :P
 
Isn't it amazing when you get those chains that look like they would cut horribly due to uneven cutters yet they cut great, for who knows why??

It would be because the cutters for each side matched their rakers the same. The chain was pulling evenly side to side, it's easier to maintain when the cutters are the same length in the first place.
 
Well yeah it would be in ideal situations but with hitting rocks and steel often it isn't .You're going to get some short ones unless you trim them out all the same but most including myself do not . The shorties you give another stroke on the raker .Half fast but it works .

On chisel you have a little back side relief on the cutter .I'm not exactly certain how much they can be off on a work chain to make that much difference in the overall scheme of things .
 
I don't fuss over making my cutters even. If they stay that way for most of the chain life, great, but otherwise the slightly uneven cutters never give me trouble. Chains and bars are about the only things that don't give me trouble. I've actually never bent a bar to this day, knock on wood.
 
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