its time for me to upgrade my style.

A simple SRT entry system like Brian describes is a wonderful upgrade for where you are already. I added a double handed ascender to my set up last year and really wish I had in the beginning. The cost of the CMI Expedition vs the Petzl single handle is minimal and should be considered a good investment to pay a tad more for something that will perform better for you.

For the initial ascent I did quite well with a handled ascender and a Pantin. I put the handled ascender on a loop runner and attached it to my saddle with a carabiner. I had the Pantin on my foot. I had my VT hitch attached directly to the rope and riding along as my backup to catch me if I slipped. I went up the single rope on the Pantin and handled ascender. At the top I lanyarded in, reset my rope in a standard DdRT configuration, secured the handled ascender to the back of my saddle and went to work. The Pantin can stay on your foot all day without being any more noticeable than a wrist watch.

+1
What the Sqwerly one said

thattreeguy said:

a throw line and my set up works sweet, dont need to go all high dollar and fancy

but i am a stone age climber, from behind the redwood curtain

Click to expand...

So, how many of you hardcore old timers are proficient enough at some other type of climbing, like SRT work positioning, to judge whether or not it is worth the cost and effort to learn?

Dave

http://treemagineers.com/downloads/hitch_climbers_guide.pdf



Good point, Dave.



Friction sucks on redirects with a running rope...Go SRT!

Emergency ground lowering system...Go SRT!

SouthSoundTree said:

...
Good point, Dave.

... Go SRT!

Click to expand...

+1

i can set up srt,
but really lets be honest here, 2/3rds of the trees we do are spur climbs, huge reds, and firs
the maples , birch, madrone and oak, get a throw line and a cambium saver in em, with the same old hand over hand routine or a belayed speed climb, if i need a single line entry job done i have a guy who does em on occasion for me

i have a couple hand ascenders and a pantin, prusiks....all that stuff, but really dont get to use it as often as id like, but i am 1 spur climbing s o b

and im sure the comments will start there, but lets not derail this fellas thread

If you are going to attempt an SRT system I would say go with the rope walker or unicender system IMO and I know I will come off as being biased but I don't think the handled ascenders with cams should be used in tree work. As I have stated many times before anything that has been proven to cut the rope with as little as a 7 foot drop should not be utilized in our unpredictable work environment. Also both the aforementioned systems allow for quick retreat which I think is important. Our lives literally depend on the systems we choose so consider all of the requirements and don't scrimp on cost. I used a set of Marbars for a while and always felt uncomfortable whilst doing so, one day as I looked at a big ass hornets nest it occurred to me that I HAD TO KEEP GOING UP. I know you can solve this problem but it just goes to show unexpected stuff can happen in trees, I personally have taken a 10' drop on a Wraptor, wouldn't have survived if I had been on the Marbars.......

Paul, for clarity regarding the ropewalker, are you figuring that the toothed ascenders are both below the friction hitch?

If you want to try a smoother DRT system here's an example. It's more convenient to use an oval carabiner in the lower position, so you can rotate it end for end to clip to the harness.

A decent SRT ascent system is this one...tree frog, with B's mods.

That's a sexy srt rig B. User friendly at first of no? Remember, I'm just a tree guy, not a rocket scientist. I have everything you show in that DRT rig minus the small diameter cord for that hitch. Im going to give that a whirl. Tell me exactly what that hitch is made of, size, brand, length.

I gotta get out to the next tree house climb. I think I could get a great first hand view of some different ascent methods. My goal this upcoming year is to shave time off of my pruning jobs. I make a huge part of ky living off of trees that other companies refuse to touch because they are not accessible for a bucket truck or they are too ugly and guys don't want their climbers getting in them. I get my rocks off on the headache trees. But I'm starting to realize that my methods are holding me back in too many instances. I've been really deep in thought about that lately.

My set up is a similar version to Burnam's, just no croll on a chest harness. And now that I have a Wraptor, I don't know if I will have one or not Probably will though just so I don't get too lazy
Once I got the set up "dialed in" with the right lengths and attachments adjusted, I found it was just training my body to the rhythm and movement. Did not seem to take to long

Here's a link to a recent few posts about that cord, Tuck. If you already have a tight spliced eye climb line and a hitchclimber pulley, you aren't really very old school .

https://www.masterblasterhome.com/s...Wrench-Review.&p=481259&viewfull=1#post481259

I don't know that you'll find that particular cord easily here stateside, but there are plenty of good alternatives. I like Ultratech and HRC, and lots of people seem to be finding plain old polyester in 8 or 10 mm to be ideal.

The hitch itself is an Icicle hitch. I don't know off the top of my head how long it is, eye to eye, but I'd say around 24-25 inches...I'll try to remember to measure it soon. I flirt with several different hitches as the mood strikes, mostly go back to a VT in the end until I get bored again . Anyway, I like them as short as I can get them, to shorten the throw and capture as much progress as possible...also helps ensure quick grab under loading.

The tree frog system isn't all that hard to learn; basic technique, getting the lengths of the tethers right, and figuring out how to finesse a changeover to rappel if you have to do it hanging on rope are far more quickly sussed out if you have a knowlegable coach, though. Fortunately, you do here at the THouse...plenty of SRT savvy climbers to offer advice .

I took the kit Tobe Sherrill generously sent me to review several years back when he was introducing it, and upgraded it to a double handle ascender and an adjustable foot loop.

http://www.sherrilltree.com/Professional-Gear/Climbing-Kits/Climbling-System-434

It's on the spendy side, but if you have some of the bits on hand and are willing to do some of the assembly and such yourself, it can easily be set up for less. Good stuff costs, and you do sometimes get an easier to use product for the bigger bottom line.

I haven't found anything related to this business to be cheap! Lol. I really feel you get back out of your climbing gear so much more then you put in. My wife ordered me some whites smokejumpers last summer and several guys have asked about my brand of boots and the price. I tell them the price and they look at me like I need my head examined. Its hard for me to explain to them that these boots are an investment in my productivity. The comfort they offer keeps me on foot longer. Same with climbing gear. Good gear is an investment that allows us to stay aloft and productive much longer.

We copied Burnham's modified tree frog when we started training for our first Redwood/Sequoia climb.

It is a very logical, easily learned set-up.
Even for an old, out of shape geezer like myself.

We still use it, with no modifications. Some things just WORK!

That hitchclimber setup of yours, would be a lot slicker with spliced eyes instead of those bulky knots IMO, Burnham.
Apart from that, it is the same as the one I use, but with a VT.

I have found that in most cases I don't care for the change in diameter and stiffness that spliced eyes make in tresse cords. I like 'em short, and the tied eyes let me get that better that splices. Plus, waaaay cheaper.

Spliced eyes are the cat's meow on climb lines, or lanyard snaphooks...it's only on tresse cords that I dislike them.

VT here too, more than any other.

Tucker943 said:

... The problem is, there's quite a few better ways out there and I'm just not sure which direction to head in. I could really use help guys. ...

Click to expand...

Tucker, this is a link to a thread on UK site. Post #6 is by Reg Coates. I don't know if you are familiar with who he is, but he has a good rep as a high production, contract climber, now working in BC.

Dave

http://arbtalk.co.uk/forum/climbers-talk/36682-rope-wrench-feedback.html

So I've been seeing lots of info about using a rope wrench set up with a pantin on your foot..... Is that fashionable these days?

I just bought a RW last week from Wesspur, haven't used it yet but psyched to do so. That was a pretty convincing review from Reg. (Too bad he doesnt' post here!)

Dialing in the diameter of the rope with the adjustable bar on the RW is important.

I feel like my RW tether cord is too short and will be trying a slightly longer one.

I think that I'll be trying an RW system with a pantin on my one foot, and bungee'd floating foot ascender with foot loop for the other. Anybody done this?

I saw that people on the buzz were using quickdraws for RW tethers.

https://www.treestuff.com/store/catalog.asp?item=1206



As far as the two ascenders I think you are talking about a DLRW or double leg rope walker...Check out:
http://vtio.org.au/Content/wp-content/uploads/2010/07/Single-Rope-Technique-i.pdf

I'm digging this thread.