Carabiner rolled open

Bermy

Acolyte of the short bar
Joined
May 3, 2008
Messages
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Location
Tasmania
During a scramble down between some branches out on the tips yesterday, I slid past one and heard a funny noise...looked at my hitch system and lo and behold the gate on the triple lock was OPEN!!!
It was the lower one (HC/VT System) I had my weight on it so there was no chance of the VT eye coming out but still, a bit of a moment.
 
My partner had the same thing happen to him this summer. We use Petzl AMD's. What do you use?
 
Are you certain it was fully closed to begin with Bermy? Sometimes they get a little sticky and look closed but all locking mechanisms didnt fully engage?
 
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  • #4
DMM with a green gate...yup, fully closed they get the click test every climb.

I know what happened, as I slipped past the branch the gate got pushed up, then I moved and it got turned then moved again and it got pushed in and opened, they were bouncy little branches and it was a bit of a squeeze to get through...
It pays to eyeball your gear from time to time during the progress of work, as well as being alert for odd noises!
 
Do a simple test Fiona. Open the carabiner, let go of the gate and see if it closes completely and locks. If it does not after repeated tries, it would time to clean and add some graphite or retire the biner if the aforementioned procedure does not help the biner to close.
 
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  • #6
Yes, that's what I do, open them and then release them slowly...if they don't close all the way it's time for a cleaning, just letting them snap shut sometimes doesn't give you the true reading of if a biner is getting gummy. The ones on my HC are fine...it was the combination of sliding past a branch and the subsequent movement of me and the branch that opened it.

I have a gecko that from new didn't close all the way when released slowly...it was consigned to the rigging kit..
 
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  • #9
Do you mean the double action snap Butch or something different?
I have a friend here who is recovering from a 20 meter fall, he reckons the snap on his wire core came open...not quite sure how, they are still reconstructing the accident, as well as him!
 
I have had a snap fail to close and also jam up if some debris gets in them or a piece of clothing or saddle strap/belt. Had a twig get in the back of one once, pissed me off for a while aloft trying to get it out :lol:
 
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  • #12
Tell me there are at least two motions to open the snap...!
 
Here ya go Fiona, I think Butch uses the same kind.
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  • #15
Exactly...that's what's on my flipline.

Biners and snaps can come open given the right set of circumstances!
 
Yet... I've never had my ***GASP!!*** screw-lock biners open up. Never.
 
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  • #19
Ahh...give it time Eric...one day, one day....
 
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  • #21
Yeah, well my jinx came up yesterday so I should be OK for a while...
 
I've been using screwgates for about 15 years, not always in tree work. I began as a rock climber, then industrial access, rescue etc. Never had a problem with one until a few months ago. I was doing a freehanging ascent and didnt have my hitch on a slack tender. Taking big jugging leaps forward. Took one jug, Slid the hitch up and it slid way up. Looked down at the beener and the hitch wasn't in it.

I couldnt let go of the rope with the right hand, couldn't pull down the hitch with the left as I slid it up too far. It was too far to get back into the beener. Ended up taking a rap round my foot and standing up on that, clipping in and then hanging for a while just to get over the moment.

Once is enough for me. I switched to tripple action the next day. Went and tried a few out and found I liked the action on the DMM the best. Only a couple months later, one of the springs that does the 'gate close' action has snapped. I think I'm going to have to switch to petzl.

Shaun
 
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