Wood stove heat

our insert has a blower that really warms up the house. but it sounds like a damn jet airplane. only turn it on when we are not in the room.
 
Yea, that's the issue with mind. With the talk of an ecofan, I was thinking about getting one, but realized I already have ceiling fans. I've been trying the one near the stove on low with the blades reversed. Jury's still out. I'm not sure it's a huge difference over still air.
 
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I'm a little surprised that more people have not mentioned ceiling fans. If you have quality brushless ones that have a true slow speed, they are tremendous at getting room heat distributed. The huge plus for them is that they are whisper quite.
 
flushcut said:
Right on. So that brings me to my next question on the Vigilants where do you set the secondary burn "keyhole" flapper wide open or? I have been running it about 1/4 position open and the damper in the vertical position.
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The little keyhole thing is supposed to be for burning Green Wood ...
I run them closed mostly , set the auto dampener wide open and let it work
 
Alrighty, got another question about lining an existing chimney. I was planning on just using steel stovepipe, dropping them down from above and using self tappers to hold the joints in place. This would obviously not last as long as stainless but i have a ranch house with a 4 12 pitched roof, so swapping later isn't an issue, and would cost less than a quarter of what the flexible ss would run. My buddy who has been burning for years was saying the regular steel wouldn't last 2 years hardly, but I'm not seeing it possibly rusting out that fast at all, and would likely serve a decade with regular cleanings. Thoughts?

@squisher
 
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DMc said:
I'm a little surprised that more people have not mentioned ceiling fans. If you have quality brushless ones that have a true slow speed, they are tremendous at getting room heat distributed. The huge plus for them is that they are whisper quite.
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I'm a little surprised that more people have not mentioned central heating with a wood burning furnace.

That Rocks!
 
If I lived in the country, and in a colder area, I might get some kind of "infrastructure" burner. Probably supplemented with a standalone stove. I really enjoy the process of burning wood on a small scale. Carrying it, feeding a stove, and seeing the flames with a point source of heat. It obviously has a lot of drawbacks in efficiency, but I've never been one to to particularly seek out efficiency with most things.
 
Lovely.
Does having the whole house at a perfect temperature ( too hot for me , but perfect for the mail order bride and the dog) and being able to run a hottub of the system count.

We do have a stove for those really cold days ( which we never see, since the climate has gone to Spain) or for when the mail order bride goes in grandmother mode, and wants to knit in front of a roaring fire.

But honetsly, central heating is it.
 
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Dave, have I mentioned that not being able to visit you and your wife SUCKS!
 
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squisher said:
Many masonry chimneys can be inspected fairly easily by using a mirror and a high powered flashlight to look up the cleanout if the top of the chimney is to difficult to access.
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More good info!
 
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stig said:
Lovely.
Does having the whole house at a perfect temperature ( too hot for me , but perfect for the mail order bride and the dog) and being able to run a hottub of the system count.

We do have a stove for those really cold days ( which we never see, since the climate has gone to Spain) or for when the mail order bride goes in grandmother mode, and wants to knit in front of a roaring fire.

But honetsly, central heating is it.
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Except when you factor in the build cost. Once you get into doing that, if you have a well designed house, with a wood stove as the heat source planned from the front end, as Dave and I both do, then your system is overly expensive and provides no true benefit at less financial outlay.

Except for the hot tub...that one beats all my arguments into paste :D.

JMHO :).
 
First off, beautiful cookstove Dave. I recall you have another quite beautiful stove setup too I think? When I was really young we had a wood cookstove. Form, function, a woodburners dream.

Kyle I would be leery of installing a chimney liner like you described. Definitely not the intended use of stovepipe. SS liners are a far superior and safer way to go. A product that is designed for the problem. I envision stovepipe not lasting long and being a nightmare to un-install or being able to inspect for integrity of the joints and pipe itself. Say a joint fails mid chimney, it could become a interesting game of go fish to remove the rest. Also if a joint or the pipe itself fails and allows creosote to leak into the existing chimney liner you could end up with a dangerous problem. Masonry chimneys can be quite a corrosive environment too. A ss liner can upgrade or maintain the clearances on an existing masonry chimney but steel stovepipe does neither of those. My one chimney is lined with corrugated ss liner and my other is lined with insulated hard liner. If you are lining the chimney because of broken or missing tiles or grout/mortar between tiles the steel stovepipe is a uncertified band aid at best IMO.
 
Stainless Liners are pricey but usually the way to go. Have a friend who unfortunately had a Chimney Fire (which was put out)... Masonry and guess the interior didn't do so so good , he went for the specialized Concrete round pour to use Chimney again , again not cheap but super durable way out of the problem.
 
I put a flex liner in my buds house after a roaring chimney fire. Did not really hurt the chimney but put the fear of god in them. Flue was huge for a fireplace. They had a slide in insert. Recipe for making creosote. Leaking air and oversized flue hard to keep up to temp. They put a new airtight in.
 
Just the one stove, Justin. But as Burnham eluded to, the house was designed by us specifically to maximize the use of a wood stove.

It is a 1903 Hartland Oval that is UL-rated so house insurance will still accept it. A key component, is that it also has a outside fresh air intake into the firebox. With a tightly sealed house, this makes a difference.
 
Is 1903 the model # or is it literally over a hundred y o?
 
Thanks guys, I'll be going with the proper ss liner then. My next question is floor protection... so this is a non ul stove, requiring 36 inch side and top clearance, which with the addition of a heat shield for the mantle I'm good. Where I'm not good is on the floor... the stove has stubby 2 inch legs, which combined with the fact that it's not listed, requires a 4 inch masonry base or something. I'm still trying to figure out exactly what they are requiring on nfpa 211. Being welded construction, i could add longer legs, but I'm not sure which is the best way to go.

To further complicate it, I'm tight on clearance fitting in the fireplace in the vertical dimension. It's fortunately solid block, but if i raise the floor I'm going to have to cut out a row of stone, which means moving the lintel up, and gives me another 5 inches to work with. The floor is a few layers of concrete board with some tile on top, and it's ugly so it'll be good to change. I'll have to come out farther to meet the 18 inch requirement, which means doing some carpet work as well, but there's nothing i can do about that.

So basically I gotta figure out how to build this hearth, because that's step 1. I'm kinda surprised they are that anal over this, but i want it to be right and safe. This might take longer than I hoped to get it installed, but it'll be worth it. And yes, simply buying a new stove isn't going to be the way.
 
If flooring is non combustible , play ball. Leg height is usually designed for floor safety even combustible is my experiences (disclaimer as every model is different) .... Underside is generally not the problem with clearances.
 
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