How do you sharpen saw chain?

When dull I dip it in Apple cider vinegar and blow dry after 3-5 min.

I do that with my hair but don't blow dry it anymore.

As for files I use a brass brush to clean them.

Chains, in a vise at home or work mounted on a stump. Both hands on file, chain tight. File one side then go around and file other side. I've tried other ways, that's the only way for me. Only touchup filing is on climbing saws, the rest get knocked around a bit.
 
Then it depends on the file .Some are aggressive as hell but they load up and wear out fast .Others are less aggressive and don't load up and last a long time .Just depends on your preferences like anything else .
 
I do that with my hair but don't blow dry it anymore.

As for files I use a brass brush to clean them.

Chains, in a vise at home or work mounted on a stump. Both hands on file, chain tight. File one side then go around and file other side. I've tried other ways, that's the only way for me. Only touchup filing is on climbing saws, the rest get knocked around a bit.

You use vinegar in your hair?
Perhaps you have that modern golfball look then?

For cleaning I use just gas. The vinegar eat the burr of the file and make it sharp again.
 
Vinegar has lot of uses.Makes a good glass cleaner .Actually disolves to a point the filings in a file .Not bad when used with veggie oil for salad dressing .Combined with water ----:|:
 
I prefer to file at my shed bench in the vise, and carry a couple of spares to swap out in the field...though I'll touch up an undamaged chain that's just lost it's edge in the field on the tailgate or ground. I file square until maybe a third of the tooth, maybe half, is used, then round file after that...I think my angles begin to wander too much at about that point.

I file one hand on the file, one hand stabilizing the tooth, like Skwerl...all one side then all the other, always right hand on the file. I strongly believe in wearing gloves to file...got the scars to show why :).
 
When in the shop, with the saw on the tablesaw, a good height, then blow off the filings. In the field, on my lap when sitting on the crane outrigger, or set the saw on whatever if no crane present.. Same method as Brian and Burnham, one hand on the file, the other supporting the chain. I used to reverse the file and pull it for the other side, but I decided it was a bad habit and push the file for both sides now. I read somewhere once that it is more desirable to grind across the tooth in the direction away from the thin edge (heat), so since the grinder has a reversing motor, I like to follow that procedure when grinding. I might soak a chain in kerosene and/or a bath of thinned oil on occasion, particularly with a new chain in the oil, then hang it and let it drip off so it isn't so messy.
 
Now I'm here to tell you I'd never try to file square in the boon docks .I have enough problems with that in a vice on a bench . Lawdy takes me forever even that way . I see why the west coast crowd use grinders on that stuff .
 
I think that the most refined hand skill that I have ever read about was an article about a guy who grinds lenses by hand the old fashioned way. Only one in the country, and I think that he works for Nikon special projects. He gets them perfect.
 
Figured you have gotten used to saying it cause all you clients probably do. And figured you could take the abuse:)
 
Actually it was the last crew I worked with- all hispanic guys and they called it the blade as a joke- they said the last white guy that worked with them taught it to them, so whenever they were trying to speak english that's what they'd call it. Goofy guys. There's a reason they were all making minimum wage!
 
Method 'A' when in the shop, and a log vise when touching up 3 foot or longer bars-worth of chain at a work site.
For smaller saws I used to use the same method as Nick.
Now that my knees are making an old fart out of me I set the saw on the tailgate with the bar tip against something that doesn't move and use sharp, new files and light strokes.
 
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Thanks a ton you guys--and Bermy! Really, quite helpful. Seems like the real trick is whatever stabilizes the bar so as to minimize rocking which always makes for crappy filing, but it was really interesting to see the myriad ways presented.

You youngsters clearly have access to methodology which we old-timers or premature old-timers have to forgo. Nice vid Nick. Thanks. Tell Willie to go kill some defenseless animal, and leave you alone.

Hey Willie: Remember how Max used to file INTO the chrome sometimes--as if he were using a square file--with a round file. And remember how he used to ram a wedge between the bar and chain to render the chain super tight.;) That was a nice trick.

You guys who like to hold the chisel with one hand while the other works the file might want to try that.

Thanks Stig. I should have known that the old-timers had thoroughly hashed all this out WAAAY before some poop stain kid's gotta go reinventing the wheel!!
 
Jed,
I'm sure the wedge deal would get the chain super tight and allow you to use two hands on the file, but frankly I'm not going to waste that much time on each tooth. I grab the tooth, swipe 3-4 times and I'm on to the next tooth in about 10 seconds. It would take you longer than that just to get the chain ready to file.
 
Jed,
I'm sure the wedge deal would get the chain super tight and allow you to use two hands on the file, but frankly I'm not going to waste that much time on each tooth. I grab the tooth, swipe 3-4 times and I'm on to the next tooth in about 10 seconds. It would take you longer than that just to get the chain ready to file.

Yup, I can do 115DL in 5 minutes.
 
Look mom, no hands!

I don't think I'm any slower than that, using both hands.
But I've never timed myself, I just file and get back to killing trees, no big deal
 
I like the feeling I get when the chain is razor sharp right there after, throws chips, pulling itself down into the wood, and cutting straight. THAT makes me feel good that I did a good job of it8)
 
It depends a bit what result you are after as well. Most people think new chains are as good as it gets and are happy as long as it cuts. Pro's included.
To me it is more than just getting it sharp, also stay sharp too. It should not wear excessively, vibrate, create heat, pull to sides or waste energy in any other way than cutting.
A new chain is a good starting point.
When making a cutting edge it needs to stay put and angles need to be same applied with correct amount of force. File tend to vibrate instead of cutting sometimes.

Best way to see what is to improve is to look at the woods surface, bar and chain.
You can cut a cookie about 1cm from the end, stop in the cut about half way thru, then wedge the disk until it break.
If you are careful and a tad lucky, it break in the bottom line of the cutter and sometimes the saw dust or as I like to see tree fiber is still in cutter as it do what it does best.
It should optimally be one string of fiber curled up in the space between cutting edge and depth guage.

A filing is a series of compromises to a lot of aspects to get it as good as possible for me on this saw and the wood I cut now.
Experimenting with angles, files, shape of the cutter etc can be really rewarding. Especially if you cut mostly same type of wood.
 
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