346 smoking

Cobleskill

Treehouser
Joined
Dec 31, 2006
Messages
4,724
Location
Western New York near Lake Ontario
3 month old 346. I have run a little over 4 gallons through it. It was running just a tad on the rich side. Now it doesn't have enough adjustment with the limiter to not smoke. Anybody ever have a saw go too rich? Better than too lean, I guess, but it has me puzzled.
 
What's the plug look like ? If it's nice and brownish don't worry about it .

Could be a number of things if you can't lean it out .Chit in the gas that got through the screen and jammed under the fuel lever is one .It doesn't take much .
 
  • Thread Starter Thread Starter
  • #5
The dealers a douche. I can get to the needle without pulling the carb. I think the fuel line too. I will try blowing it out on the saw. I took the carb off to get the limiter off. Kind of a pain. The kid doing the work at the dealer has a pile of carbs he diagnosed as "no good." How many new carbs are just plain shot? I don't have much faith in him. Can't grind a chain right either.
 
Well since you fiddled with it most likely the warentee is voided .It's just as easy to work on a carb out of the saw as on it .You'd just as well peel it down to the bones and see what the devils wrong with it now .
 
Warranty doesn't mean shit if the dealer can't fix it anyway. Any moron can replace a carb. Yes, you usually have to remove the carb in order to shave the limiter. And yes, that means you have to pull the fuel line off the carb, as well as the choke and throttle levers.

If it's smoking a lot, what kind of mix oil are you using? I'm not familiar with Husky oil since we have no dealers around here anyway, but Echo oil is very good and Stihl synthetic (white bottle) is excellent. The standard Stihl oil (orange bottle) is garbage.

You might also try removing and cleaning the muffler screen, and perhaps making the muffler exit hole a little bit bigger while you are there. I've never run one in stock form but I seem to recall the mufflers are quite restrictive as they come from the factory. A few months running with the muffler all plugged up will cause a quick buildup of carbon and sludge. Open it up a little so the exhaust can get out and it can breathe a little. Your saw will be much happier, stronger and run cleaner.
 
Might just be bad gas.
Being that new, it should have a catalytic converter in the muffler, muffler modding wont do much for it. Check with Baily's and get a muffler without the cat in it first off. I've no idea how these are going to mess with the saws, but I'm sure it's not a good thing.
As for the dealer with all the carbs, Stihl teaches it's techs to do everything they can to fail the carb first and foremost, this seems to eliminate a lot of the headaches in diagnosing problems.
 
  • Thread Starter Thread Starter
  • #11
I am sure the gas is good. I ran another saw on it, no problem. No cat. It would say E-tech on the side cover and have a green gas cap. Good thought on the muffler. I hadn't thought of that. I would think if my dealer wants to keep me as a customer they would overlook me pulling the cap. They plug was awful white looking so I turned it the little bit the limiter allowed me and watched the plug. Still to white. I read they come through set pretty lean. Supposed to be kind of nasty out. I will tear into it and report.

My Dad bought a Homie back in the 80's and it quit running. He took it to a service place and stopped back in a couple weeks. Nothing yet. 2 weeks more, still nothing. He asked the guy when he was going to get around to it - he says if you are in a rush maybe you should take it somewhere else. Dad was so pissed he said OK, I will. He asked me to take a look. Tore the carb off and blew it out. Good to go. About an hour, start to finish.
 
  • Thread Starter Thread Starter
  • #13
It was running lean, so I pulled the cap and adjusted. I had it just a tad rich, and it seemed to slowly get a bit richer. Then it jumped to way too rich. I will look at the muffler first.
 
If your dealer doesn't want to try and help you out, try contacting the main service rep for your area, they can think independently from the dealers. Not sure how their system works now, but a long time ago, doing that got a seized saw rebuilt for me that the dealer didn't want to repair. The warrantee was up by a couple months, but they still fixed it. I think that crying over the phone helped.
 
(Provided fuel is correct and fresh, plug is new and nothing seem to look wrong.)
If you compensated it for running lean, and it starts to smoke, but not performing correct, it is usually a air leak some were.
Intake boot, cylinder bace perhaps...

If it doesn't get a proper sale service lots of things can be wrong...
Box store saws/internet saws, is not a good thing when something happens.
It is usually worth it to find a good dealer, run whatever he has and stick with it.
Can't put a price tag on a guy with knowledge and good service.
 
  • Thread Starter Thread Starter
  • #16
It was set lean from the factory. They are trying to meet some pollution regulations, I think. We had a pretty good dealer mechanic, but he went down the road and his replacement has some learning to do.

I turned the H screw enough so it should have gone from rich to lean. I am thinking a small piece of dirt stuck between the needle and seat could be the culprit. I will take a look at the muffler, then the carb.
 
Once again at the risk of sounding like a wise azz you about have to disect a carb to get to the root of the problem .You'd just as well jettison the limiters right now if you ever want that thing to run at its' full potentional .

I kid you not I've rebuilt carbs and done away with the limiters and the owners of misbehaving saws swore I tweeked the engines which I in fact had not .The most comical was a later model McCulloch weed wacker with about a 3 cube engine .When I got through with that thing I swear you could have cut down a tree with it .Biggest engine wacker I ever saw .
 
  • Thread Starter Thread Starter
  • #19
Other than a crack,or a loose or unsealed Welch plug, I can think of no cause for dumping fuel, other than a piece of dirt under the needle. The Welch plug will be visible with the pump cover off. I normally would pull the carb off and disect. Removal is kind of a pain on this model. I will poke around and try the easy stuff first.
 
Well truth be known I haven't seen too many models of Husqvarna where the removal of the carb is a simple task .
 
It's a lot easier to pull the carb than you think. The throttle wire, fuel line and choke lever pop off. The back of the carb assembly is held in place with two rubber bands, then you need a long allen wrench to pull the two screws holding it all to the intake. Easy peasy.
 
Oh they all have their little quirps .A 200T carb is a pain in the buttocks until you kind of pay attention then it's a cake walk .
 
Back
Top