Whizzy

One man's basics is another man's trick cut, Jerry.
I've learned a few from your book, that most people here think are really tricky.
 
Of all the tricky cuts, that one where varying depth kerfs are placed within and below the face to roll the tree around, has to be one of the trickiest.
 
I can't wait for the next time I have a leaner to fall and it doesn't matter where it goes. You gotta love practice trees.
 
I think this is what is being discussed:

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I think this guy shows this cut in another vid but I'm not sure which it is.
 
The vid shows a regular face, while the whizzy was described as having a Humboldt cut. I would think that the effectiveness of removing the corner would be enhanced with a Humboldt. It seems that a regular face would likely snap the whole hinge across when it closes, less chance to swing the tree. Just speculating....
 
Jay, why would a 45 degree Humboldt snap the hinge later than a 45 degree regular?

Gord, that is a hybrid between a German/ vertical cut and a Whizzy.


If I understand the whizzy correctly, that is!
 
When it's a humboldt, isn't a tree more into it's fall before the hinge tends to break? Maybe I need to rethink it?

If that's the case, a humboldt has no more redeeming qualities than a regular face, except for allowing more usable wood at the base of the log?
 
Jay, three perks of a humboldt that I can think of

1- you don't usually use a stump shot/ offset as an anti-stump jump, thereby saving the extra cut to square off the log,

2- the face is easier to break out/ have drop out on big trees. They will slide out with gravity.
When I am trying to get a bigger, double-cut face notch to drop out but am not getting it all aligned 100%, I will usually have very good, easy success by boring perpendicular to the hinge in the middle of the face, cut it up to the horizontal face kerf and down to the sloping kerf, then can pop in a wedge in the vertical cut, and a quick knock with the maul will often cause one half to slide out. Then I can knock out the other side with the maul, and clean up the notch.

3- you don't have to be able to reach so high with the Humboldt, which helps a lot if you are on a hill, especially a steeper hill.

I suspect others will be able to add other reasons.


People often will cut shallower humboldts than conventional face cuts, IME. I think that it is all down to how many degrees the properly cut notch is open, which is a part of why many trainers seem to prefer 70 to 90 degree open-face/ birdbeak facecuts, for extra control.
 
Humboldt is a cooler sounding name then traditional or open. Which sticks with the always looking awesome theory.
 
I watched the video before and can understand the theory behind what the fellow is attempting. He seems to be satisfied with the results. I could see that the tree pulled the hingewood from the corner he opened up. But other than that I couldn't see much more.

Theory of whether the humboldt or conventional holds the hinge better has been a long time subject and debate amongst people in the trade. My feeling about it is that with a gap the hinge is going to hold better either way. And the gap is just a whizzy all the way across the stump anyway.

Even with a gap though the hingewood doesn't pull from the stump the same way every time. Lot of factors and theory to that all in itself.

Basically it mostly boils down to what a person knows and believes will work. Whether it works in theory or not. Certainly all of it opens room for lively discussion and debate.

I can dig it.
 
OK, here is a question. The whizzy is used to swing a leaning tree away from the natural lean. We use a Humboldt notch. Is this notch cut parralel to the ground, or could you cut it perpendicular to the truck? Would/could this effect the final result much?
 
The some places it (the truck and people) had better be more than 2X the height of the tree, if the stem is more than 10' tall, or you'll be in trouble!!!!:lol:
 
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