Stein Arbor-Trolley

I store the extensions in a tool box. I think a steel pipe welded to the chipper would allow you to drop them in and store them way better.

You could safely say that most of the terrain we work is 'flat'-ish. We see hills of course, but its not an everyday thing.

For my use, if I need mechanized pull, I probly dont have the handle on, so I am pulling the material itself. I think making sure the pull comes from a point a little bit higher than the COG makes sure it doesnt nose down.

The improvement I want to make is a few small studs on the back V of the trolley body. Im thiking simple 1/4" bar stock nubs, only 1/4" high. One on the flat cross bar and two on each side of the V frame. They would stop logs from sliding and you can easily lift up on the front of the handle or material which would drop the back of trolley down and away allowing you to slide the material for balance, but when you let it back down the studs would catch. Make sense? Other than that it would be cool to have a small version of a standard trucking/trailer ratchet strap (like on the GRCS) but using a 3/4" strap. It could be built onto the side of the trolley.
 
I'm with Gary best one yet! And I can see the point in "dogs" on the back.
If you didn't enjoy tree work so much I would say you could do well in marketing:D
 
About all i can do today. Need to get steel for axle, and a couple extra small add ons. Pretty pumped!
 

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The extra bar? Not sure why thats there. Using what i have right now. Gotta add the "brake" underneath but need to mount the tires first. Using the same tire thats on my mini, wider.
 
brendonv said:
The extra bar? Not sure why thats there. Using what i have right now. Gotta add the "brake" underneath but need to mount the tires first. Using the same tire thats on my mini, wider.
Click to expand...

That extra bar is very important Brendon it protects your hands if a log should slide forward which can happen under a number of circumstances

mobile...

edited for faulty voice recognition on phone
 
Brendon, It looks awesome man!

You should totally add the 'dogs' or little studs on the back sections and let us know how it works.

With heavy long sections, you can 'scoop' them up like you would with a regular dolly. Then by tipping and twisting you can turn it 90 degrees to get it in optimal position. This puts a lot of stress on the top frame sections (perpendicular to axle). The mild steel on the AT bends here, but according to Reg has never broken or pulled out of the frame. I might be concerned about the strength of aluminum here. Maybe beef the top rail up?

The supports connecting the sides (parallel with the axle) take a lot of hits to, when you toss a log onto it funnels down and slams that small piece pretty hard. A vertical beam down to the main frame might prove wise.

I want to say the handle is not 45 degrees, that seems too low.

I respect making stuff on your own, but I am no fabricator. I wish I hadnt lied to myself saying I was gonna make one for so long before realizing that. Good on you for not waiting for snowy days and getting to work, everyone else should just go buy one.
 
Thanks nick.

I will add more as tome goes on. Thats the beauty of aluminum, brush, wipe and weld. I added some more this morning, but will take yours into consideration. What do you recon the studs to look like. Im assuming this is for healing logs onto it like a hand truck?
 
Loading them in general. I would just take some 1/4 or 3/8" bar and drill a matching hole through the square tube. Cut to flush on the underneath and so that they stick out 1/2", weld in place. It would be helpfull for for healing like a trad dolly and for other loading reasons.

Only on the back though not on the front. You dont want to lose the ability to slide the logs forwards or backwards. If they are only on the back you can lift up on the handle and the log will tip against the ground, allowing the back of the trolley to drop down and freeing the log from the grip of the studs.
 
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