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Deva, LA isn't a tuning screw other than for the idling rpm adjustment. If it is merely a carb adjustment problem, the L screw is probably what needs to be dialed in. Don't lean out the H screw too much or you can ruin your saw, that's not really a concern with the L screw. The factory specs...

Torx, right. Thanks.

Deva, also be sure to cinch down the bolts holding the cylinder to the crankcase, they can loosen up. Either they are allen head or more likely that type bolt that requires the Stihl specialty wrench. You probably need a long wrench to reach down in there to engage the bolts.

Deva, are you sure that you have the gaskets and diaphragms in the right order? The metering side has the gasket next to the carb body under the diaphragm. When you take off the cap you only see the diaphragm. The pump side the diaphragm is next to the carb body with the gasket on top under...

Those transparent type pump diaphragms seem to last longer than the black ones like used on the metering side. Not sure if the transparent type ever come as original parts on the saw for the pump side, maybe just after market? No ethanol here, but it seems like the black diaphragms seem to...

020 saws had both Walbro and Zama carbs, both adjustable, Walbros on the earlier models. I think you'd hard pressed to find a Walbro speced for that saw now.

Deva, was more joking than being critical of the trying to get away with the simplest fix. Been often guilty of that myself. The 4 screw cover side is the metering diaphragm, the side probably most prone to being the culprit. Easy to check both sides without taking anything that can get lost...

You didn't go to the trouble of pulling off the carb and then not check the diaphragms? That would be a capital offense. :lol:

Oh yeah, the only things that you can take out to facilitate cleaning after that are the high and low speed adjusting screws. I shoot carb cleaner into the holes. When you do put the screws back in, don't seat them too tight is what gets said, not to damage the fine tips.

Very straight forward it is. The only thing that I guess could be said that is delicate, is if you want to disassemble the whole carb for cleaning. Two things.... On the pump side is a little screen that sits in a recess, about 3/8" in diameter or so. You can pop that out with a pointed...

Deva, I don't recall if you mentioned having rebuilt a carb before, but if you haven't, be mindful that the metering side diaphragm (4 screws holding on the top cover plate) sits on top of the gasket. The opposite side pump diaphragm is reversed, it sits against the carb body under the gasket.

There certainly are more experienced people than me who would likely offer a wiser reply, but I would guess that the saw might well have simply quickly froze up with no damage to the crank bearings or anything else besides the p and c. After thoroughly blowing out and cleaning the crankcase...

A lot of things, Deva. Mostly the people I had there that were great friends. I think of them much.

Deva, carb thing is a minor repair too basically, if it is the diaphragms that need replacement. You just have to take the carb out of the saw, which gives a good chance to clean the carb too. If you do it once you pretty much have it down, as all carbs are basically the same. Pulling off the...

It does sound like it could be an air leak. Just wondering about the condition of the carb, particularly the pump and metering diaphragms, have they become hardened and unable to function properly? I think in addition to looking for a hose leak, pulling apart the carb to clean and check it out...