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Yeah, sorry about bringing that previous post to your screen. Does MB ever give a new avatar to a banned member?

Anyone using a CBN type wheel on their chain grinder? If so, I'm wondering how you like it compared to the cheaper regular abrasive type wheel. Advantages? Thanks.

Pitch and whatever crud accumulates restricts chain movement, soaking in oil when new gets a high degree of lubrication into all the moving parts. To what degree it is necessary is probably debatable.

I remember the old recommendation to soak new chains in oil. I did it, but thinned the oil a bit. It felt good to do that, and not such a mess if you have them drip over the oil container for a bit. Maybe sometimes soaking chains in kerosene then dipping them in oil might not be a bad idea.

Hard nose bars loser, I think is the common recommendation. Maybe like the old style strapped toe clips on bicycles, some dudes have never seen them.

Long bars or short bars, I feel it's basically the same principle regarding chain tightness. As minimal a gap or none at all, and still being able to easily pull the chain around the bar with your fingers, is the correct tightness setting....plus your own feel for it for that last tiny measure...

I see old timers filing vertical. Once it may have been explained as the way to do it.

+1 Looks like a good height.

What I have isn't the green wheel, Jerry, it's a steel plate with diamonds embedded on the edge of the wheel in some kind of hard substrate. Perhaps the diamonds get rounded over or something, but it doesn't appear to wear. It also isn't fluted, so something different from what you are...

I have one, Jerry. A guy I worked with bought a short reel of carbide tipped chain and the diamond wheel to sharpen it, and gave it to me to take care of his tools because he only had the proper use of one hand. He is retired and i still have it. With carbide it is essential, and though i...

In Will Maloff's book on milling, he shows a bar mounted grinder similar to the larger stationary ones with a pivoting arm that holds the grinding wheel. Not sure what powers it, but it looks like a useful device. I think I looked into getting one but they were no longer being made available...

Nice to see a well cared for 090 primed for activity. Not some beat up thing on ebay that the seller wants megabucks for.

If there is any correlation, heavier saw blades sure run truer in the cut than thinner ones, especially when they get hot.

I use it on the 088 with .050, but the saw doesn't see much daylight these days. I also tried it on the 090G, and it seemed to work ok until the home made sprocket disintegrated. The long Woodsman Pro bar has a .050 groove, so they must have figured that folks would want to run that gauge, for...

I recall when discussing this before, that a few folks prefer the heavier drive link. I think Wiley P was one.

I believe that you are correct, Al. Isn't there a movement to basically eliminate .058 in all pitches?

My 088 came with .404 chain. Never used it though, just changed to 3/8. I can't remember if it is Oregon or Woodsman Pro brand, but I believe I noticed in a Baileys catalog from a few years ago (they never update my catalogs even though i have ordered thousands of dollars of stuff from them...

Doesn't the .404 have a heavier chassis? Might be a strength factor there, less deflection in the cut or something.

No way anyone can blame you for what you do now, Chris. :)

11-13 is a good age to start a manual trade, being flexible and in the natural learning stage, it just isn't legal in a lot of places. I recall seeing a young boy hauling boxes and other things around at a Hong Kong open market, seeming to be in the 8-10 years old range, and appearing to work...