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I cut and tossed the lower brush from the lift. Then I rigged the bigger brush and limb wood from the blue rope you see hanging down. The porty was in the tree so all the ground dude had to do was untie the chunk. I fed out slack as it swung across the house, normally landing the piece in the...

:O I didn't see that the first time I loaded the page, only the bonsi and thought you were making a joke. Comparing what's use for timber harvesting and urban removals are way different beasts. I carried the saw about 20' from the truck to the stump on flat ground :lol:. I removed a 7' oak...

6'=72" Cutting that tree down and bucking it would flat out suck with a 30" bar. MB likes to give me a hard time about that bar, but since a customer bought it for me and I've used it removing 2 trees with a combined cost of over $11k, I can live with his razzing. I bought 3 chains with the...

Jamin, it was only about 5-5.5' DBH, red oak. You can see it's buttresses flared pretty good, the tip of the bar is resting on the far side of the notch's floor cut. 6' bar, fwiw. Before:

MB, I only had a 1/2" rope with me, wanted to move the fulcrum back. Also figured it'd make a cool picture. Not quite half way through it, Brett.

That was mainly for the picture. With the 088 it wasn't that big of a deal.

I agree with that also.

Me too!

Making the top cut 40* and the bottom cut 30* is faster than one cut being 70*.

Also angling the floor gets you more angle while cutting more against the grain, which is more efficent than trying to get 80* from just the top cut.