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He was changing climbing systems. He didn't test and confirm his new system would hold him before disconnecting from his proven system. He thought he had a knot as bight... He had a slip knot.

That's a rookie move... 1) not knitting the rope end on a questionable descent 2) not watching the rope end I watched a climber almost fall 60' at a comp where I was the in-tree tech. People have died at tcc's... At least one.