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If you hammer them up bad enough they won't cut right it's just as simple to get a new chain .When you can get say a 20" loop for 12-14 bucks it doesn't hardly pay to get repair parts for a chain . If nothing else hang it on a nail or cut it down for a shorter chain unless it's all trashed .

Normally if you just have a cutter which is slightly shorter than the others you won't even notice it .If however it bothers you just take a teeny bit more off the raker .It'll cut just fine .

Well truth be known grinding is just a form of machining . If you get some types of steel,with enough carbon content up to about 1400 degrees F ,which is the critical temp it will get hard as a rock. ABN /CBN Wheels cut smoother than regular grinding wheels and thus doesn't raise the surface...

It's just a fact that if you run a saw long enough you will hit metal, rock or the dirt sometime .

Speaking of metal ,I did just that yesterday .Nicked a freakin chain link fence with one of the 200's and had to put the thing in the vise to save it using an Arbor- pro file . It does just exactly as described, bends the chrome over .

Every so often I have to "Dremel " a rocked cutter .Not the best practice but it works .

While I'm thinking about it Baileys sells a file ,Arbor-Pro I think which is a less agressive type and it works well for hard chain ,like Stihl branded .I would assume it would work for burned cutters also . I can't remember the number on it but a little search on Baileys site should lead to it .

Lawdy they get like 7 bucks a pop to grind chains around here .In addition to hardening the cutters they take so much off you'd be lucky to get more than 5 sharpenings out of a chain .I'll take my file any day .