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For my deere mower that was how they have you attach a replacement bearing for the blades :lol: They have their place, but i still like to drill a small pilot hole because an actual drill bit cuts better and gives better results. They're often used for sheet metal so they work great for that...

When faced with stress and the like, i find it's best to focus on what you can change and accept what you can't, then make a list and plan how you're gonna do it all and just go to work on the stuff you can do. The fastest way to work is by calm, measured steps that are planned out, so you can...

They should have springs on them, the piece that has the zerk on it will move outwards as it's filled. You can't really overfill them, it'll just push grease out or shoot off the cap.

That's awesome, I've never messed with magnesium, very cool, very dangerous. That's exactly how i like doing them in materials that i can weld, that or braze welding them shut too, works great with cast iron. The al carb for my welder was cracked from the fuel fitting being over tightened, so i...

They even have auto grease feeders with springs on industrial equipment, and spring loaded oilers. Basically grease is cheap compared to repairing the equipment so it's ideally completely full of grease at all times, including on assembly. Wheel bearings normally don't take that much grease to...

Glad you've got it going without messing with it, drilling and tapping is never fun. I've surprisingly never done a helicoil on an engine repair, they're used to keep the same size bolt as the original and I've never had that constraint yet, a slightly larger bolt has always been acceptable for...

I would wait till you have the new caps at least, and hopefully you don't need new bearings or even worse a spindle. You'll need to pull the cotter pin and unscrew the castle nut to get the bearings off, note how it comes apart so you can put it all back. Once you clean them up and get them...

Yup, they're just pressed in there

Get some bearing buddy caps with a zerk, then replace the cap with the bearing buddy ones. Then you dont have to pull it apart to grease it, which is the normal way. Since those haven't been touched in years you might wanna pull them apart, clean them, then repack them.

The horses seem to know what's up and who to trust :lol:

I think this is the overwhelming general consensus, and I'll be honest that fact greatly confuses me. I know I'm spoiled coming from another trade, and the fact that I've have a crane or other lifting device readily available for pretty much every day of my career doesn't help, but the ability...

I use a 5/8 treemaster for my secondary because i use it on the butt, where most of the weight is when swinging limbs, the winch gets the tips.

I'm sure you know about using multi part line to make it swing far above its weight class, very handy on occasion. I'm sure you also know you can stand up limbs that would otherwise hit the structure. And I'm sure you know you can pull limbs up or together more for cabling. I also suggest to...

I only have a non tailing homemade version i welded up and i absolutely love it. I wanna add a much better fairlead with rollers, and thinking about doing a big rigging bollard and winch setup on a little hand cart, walk it up to the tree, lean it up, winch it tight, and then I'm all set up for...

That was awesome!

Yup, and cleaning up the kerf on gap hinges, which i probably use too much.

Yup, common around here too where the waters shallow

Accidently hit post reply before i was done lol