Recent content by Chainsaw10

I'm so sorry I offended you by using a rear handled saw. You're absolutely right. I will throw them in the trash tomorrow morning. What was I thinking! I'm an awful person. I will hang my head in shame over the guilt I feel after unknowingly using a inferior tool that is of the rear handled...

Any where an awesome light saw can be used ? Trimming, pruning and generally cutting small stuff? Orchard work? Carving turkey? Surgery? You're not going to get precise cuts that are any better than what you can achieve with this saw. There's much more control with a real handle vs. the...

When Working hours upon hours full time with a saw why wouldn't I want an extremely light fast cutting saw? I can carve all day long and my wrists and shoulder have no fatigue at all. A top handle saw is senseless for work on the ground when you have two hands available.

Ms150's be multiplying. Now I have one with a 8", 10", and 12" bar. :headbang: I picked up a third yesterday so I can practice juggling them.

The rear handles are also very easy to use one handed...you get a nice extended reach.

If youre wearing out nose sprockets just install a more durable bar. You're wrist may get a little sore with the top handle version 150 though:)

No oiling problems on mine Edit....I forgot early on I had to replace an oil line because it completely stopped oiling.

Ms150's and 536lixp's are both awesome little saws. I don't care for the 536 at all with the 3/8 chain. All mine run the mini 1/4". Nowadays I use the battery saws more often than the 150's. Just so easy ...pick it up and pull the trigger. My sore shoulder thanks me. ...the 150 is a couple...

In this pic you can see the holes I drilled in the Stihl bar, compared to the Woodland Pro bar that is ready from the factory to fit a variety of saws.

Another option is Baileys. They recently started making Woodland Pro bars in 1/4" .043, specifically for the stihl chain. All specs are almost exactly the same on these bars compared to stihl counterparts(length, width, sprocket size, tip size). BUT.....the woodland pro bars are a hair...

You have to drill a new bar mount hole and oil hole. I can take a pic to show how mine looks. Bar mount hole is very easy because you can use the sock bar as a template...just make a dot with a sharpie thru the husky bar onto the stihl bar. The oil hole you just gotta fudge and eyeball it...

About a week ago I was the top bidder on an almost brand new 536li XP on eBay. About $200 total:) This is my second 536. The first one I went straight to the 1/4" .043 stihl setup.....never even tried the stock 3/8" bar and chain. My intentions buying this second 536 was to run the stock 14"...

Crap! I thinks I had things backwards. I've been filing teeth with flat files and rakers with round!

I use file guides to keep the file elevated so it doesn't start digging too low on the tooth. That's my #1 reason for a guide. Guys are full of BS if they claim they can file these 1/4" .043 chains with a file only....and still keep the file elevated once you're past about half the tooth life...

I have a pferd for 3/8 chain....but it doesn't look like there is a pferd version of the 1/4"' .043.