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  • Nutball's Avatar
    1 Hour Ago
    Nutball replied to a thread Stihl 090AV? in Chainsaws!
    I thought it looked weird like the handle hinge is too high up to easily work a brake. What would a spring handle do? Push your hand back a little? How does that save your arm or face from a spinning chain?
    28 replies | 280 view(s)
  • Nutball's Avatar
    7 Hours Ago
    Nutball replied to a thread Stihl 090AV? in Chainsaws!
    Here's one with a chain brake, must be a very late model. That's what threw me off at first until I found this picture. http://www.acresinternet.com/cscc.nsf/ed1d619968136da688256af40002b8f7/4dee9715a9e84b3988256c1a0004d086?OpenDocument
    28 replies | 280 view(s)
  • Nutball's Avatar
    9 Hours Ago
    Which is better using a file guide or not? I'd use one to get the angles right, but would not using a guide help the file to sit lower and get more of a curve on the top edge of the cutter vs a very shallow curve if you know what I mean, Like what might happen if using too small of a file, but without using too small of one.
    441 replies | 28626 view(s)
  • Nutball's Avatar
    10 Hours Ago
    Nutball replied to a thread Stihl 090AV? in Chainsaws!
    Those guys are huge, so they are used to it.
    28 replies | 280 view(s)
  • Nutball's Avatar
    10 Hours Ago
    Nutball replied to a thread Stihl 090AV? in Chainsaws!
    Well, Finally. WE have an answer...kind of. I got a reply. The whole point of posting this thread was to get your guy's opinion on authenticity. Something didn't look right, mainly the design, but I found pictures of real ones like it, so the only suspicion left was in the description. So, this is either a scam, or the Chinese are at it again and now copying the 090AV. Either way I'm glad I now have my answer to is it fake or not. https://nashville.craigslist.org/grd/6195424446.html Check your local CL you just might find one "near" you. Their reply: I colored Chinese talk in red, and the hilarious reason for them selling it. Hello! Thanks for inquire - Stihl 090AV Collector Chainsaw NEW with bar and chain at the price of $1000.00. This product is Brand New, original box, sealed, never used, no scratches or any problems, comes in the manufacturer packaging with a New 30" Stihl Bar and Chain,FIles, wrench, screw driver. Stihl Pouch, 3 year of warranty and all manufacturer supplied accessories. I'm selling it because I need a bigger one:lol: and this can't help me for my work. I also offer free shipping if you will buy it before 29 of June(the shipping will take 3 - 5 business days). I registered this transaction through eBay so if you want to order, please email us your shipping details,full name and your e-mail ,so I can place your order on eBay. They will confirm the order and guide you through the payment process once we will receive your details. You will have 15 days time to test and inspect the chainsaw ,if you don't like it, I will take it back on my expense and eBay will refund you the money directly into your bank account. Kindest regards!
    28 replies | 280 view(s)
  • Nutball's Avatar
    12 Hours Ago
    Nutball replied to a thread Stihl 090AV? in Chainsaws!
    Dagum! Its as big as a dog. Looks like an extra wide bar, I wish more bars were extra wide... but extra light weight too. I wonder how it would run with the exhaust deflector removed
    28 replies | 280 view(s)
  • Nutball's Avatar
    14 Hours Ago
    Nutball replied to a thread Stihl 090AV? in Chainsaws!
    I haven't looked at it yet, but do these more recent ones have more plastic than the others or are they still mostly metal everywhere (tanks, handle, top cover, starter...) Weight is another reason I might go with a newer model. I hope this is a good enough deal to justify a heavy saw that wouldn't get used much because it is really helpful to have more power when needed. I wouldn't expect to need to use it more in one day than what I have stamina for, but I've never felt one before, so I might be tired after starting one. Also the oiler on my 2188 has a hard time keeping up on a 42" bar, and not even a 395 has a faster oil pump according to the manual.
    28 replies | 280 view(s)
  • Nutball's Avatar
    21 Hours Ago
    Nutball replied to a thread Stihl 090AV? in Chainsaws!
    I try not to be worldly and attached to things, as I see it, it was meant to be used, so don't just look at it, use it. But with the possibility of having a new one, I'd almost feel bad to get it dirty. I might want to trade for a new 880, but who knows, I don't even have it yet. What could the serial number tell me?
    28 replies | 280 view(s)
  • Nutball's Avatar
    22 Hours Ago
    Nutball replied to a thread Stihl 090AV? in Chainsaws!
    Haha, it's about time I get a good find, even if I have to pay for it. Hopefully it turns out good and all...and mine
    28 replies | 280 view(s)
  • Nutball's Avatar
    22 Hours Ago
    Nutball started a thread Stihl 090AV? in Chainsaws!
    EDIT: Looks like I answered my own question, I just found a similar picture here (the newest looking one): http://www.acresinternet.com/cscc.nsf/ed1d619968136da688256af40002b8f7/4dee9715a9e84b3988256c1a0004d086?OpenDocument I found a really modern looking 090AV online for $1000, new condition. Good price? We'll see what happens, and talk about it here.
    28 replies | 280 view(s)
  • Nutball's Avatar
    23 Hours Ago
    It appears in good condition. The purpose of the plug is to lock the rubber in place. Also the rubber is shaped to push in easier than pull out with a rounded end and a straight cornered inner lip. The caps hold the rubber expanded making it likely impossible to pull out the rubber with the cap still in and since rubber expands when pressed it would be truly impossible to push a new one in. Without a cap in I have to poke a screw driver around the lip to force a new buffer in its hole. If Stihl was smart they would have a spring screw into the cylinder so it wont break, and is super easy to replace. Unnecessary pain in the but, and might even cost 2 new saws worth of dealer shop time. I'm going to take my time fixing this one as I'm not really in to completely taking apart a saw, especially a dirty rusty ol thing.
    17 replies | 402 view(s)
  • Nutball's Avatar
    1 Day Ago
    When I re-read what you said I see I missed your misunderstanding. Both sides have a plug, the cylinder side plug is the problem. Today the Stihl dealer guy I talked to couldn't remember immediately how it was done, but agreed the cylinder probably has to come out, $85 an hour. Then I got the idea to warm up the engine before taking the engine screws out to hopefully loosen them. One or two broke free, but the others were risking breaking my driver. My T25 bit has been holding up well ever since I broke it on a likely T27 and sanded it back flat to what is now probably more like a T27 since it fits so much better. Last resort would be stripped screw removing bit, then cut flat blade slots in to put the screws back in with. So, I'll try getting the block nice n hot and see if they break free.
    17 replies | 402 view(s)
  • Nutball's Avatar
    1 Day Ago
    What screw? I couldn't get some of the engine bolts undone, so I might be about done with this saw anyway. I'll likely break a lot of t25 bits trying to undo them.
    17 replies | 402 view(s)
  • Nutball's Avatar
    2 Days Ago
    Stihl saws have a plastic cap that locks in the rubber buffer, so the cap has to be pulled to remove the rest of the rubber, and to let the new one in. They can be hard to get in from one side only even without the cap in the way.
    17 replies | 402 view(s)
  • Nutball's Avatar
    17 replies | 402 view(s)
  • Nutball's Avatar
    2 Days Ago
    The guy I work with uses them as his climbing saw, they are cheap and light. Hopefully someone here has taken one apart before. All I know for sure is that the engine has to come out unless I'm really missing some other option. It's like on an MS290 where to fix the orange cover's buffer you have to take the muffler off.
    17 replies | 402 view(s)
  • Nutball's Avatar
    2 Days Ago
    I need to fix the anti vibe buffer on a 170 that is right beside the cylinder. It tore in half a couple years ago, I wasn't there, so I don't know how it happened. Anyway it runs pretty well for having sat for 2 years with dead stink bugs in the open oil tank. Am I going to have to take the whole thing apart just to fix that one little part? The cylinder is just going to have to move out of the way. How do I do that? I see 3 engine bolts on the very bottom of the saw, but the plastic case between the carb and cylinder and around the clutch looks like it will keep the engine from lifting out. Why do Stihl saws have to be so hard to work on?
    17 replies | 402 view(s)
  • Nutball's Avatar
    2 Weeks Ago
    Guess I'll go to the dealer Monday if nobody has one by then. It's a poor condition saw to be getting an expensive ignition, but then I'm not the one paying for the repairs
    1 replies | 168 view(s)
  • Nutball's Avatar
    2 Weeks Ago
    I do the toe thing if I need full throttle, so one hand can hold the saw down while the other pulls. I forget about propping the bar on a log. Well look at that, my saw is ready for a full throttle start in my picture there
    16 replies | 664 view(s)
  • Nutball's Avatar
    2 Weeks Ago
    Anyone have a working ignition out of a broken 391 you'd sell? I can't find any on ebay, not even a $10 Chinese one. The Stihl dealer takes a week or so and costs more. I found the part number might be 1140 400 1303, but the broken module says 1140 1301
    1 replies | 168 view(s)
  • Nutball's Avatar
    2 Weeks Ago
    Thing about the 015 is you can tune it lean, so you can now create over lean all the way to over rich conditions using the choke for whatever the conditions. If I have to do a full throttle start on a big one, I used to jam my foot in the handle and use big toe to press the trigger, but boots don't fit.
    16 replies | 664 view(s)
  • Nutball's Avatar
    2 Weeks Ago
    Just what I want to hear, your 35 years of confirmation on this issue. You'd think that would be the first problem/solution in the trouble shoot list in the front of the manual to educate everyone, but we are all too smart to read a chainsaw manual because we might read something we already know. I had a 015 I used to use, the metal crank case with heatsink fin internal design (structural supports) in the gas tank quickly boiled it. That thing never stayed tuned right, but on the bright side it had a continuously adjustable choke allowing you to always "tune" it just right on the fly. I wonder if auto tune has vapor lock issues, probably does.
    16 replies | 664 view(s)
  • Nutball's Avatar
    2 Weeks Ago
    This seems to be a pretty common issue at least in my experience. I used to rarely if ever run chainsaws in the hot summer because it is too hot to work. I do it more now and of course know others that do obviously because we all need work. Recently my echo 271t which would always start in two if not just one pull when warmed up now takes 5-10 pulls. Is it vapor lock, fuel nearly boiling in the lines or fizzing out when it enters the carb causing a lean mixture? For the first few pulls it doesn't fire at all, then sometimes it does that thing where you hit full throttle and it wants to die. I'll go to check to see if it ran out of gas to have the gas boil out all over. A guy I work with will give me a saw to fix complaining it doesn't run right and is hard to start. I usually have no trouble with it, and run it till it's hot without issues, give it back, and he says it runs great for 20min then doesn't start. Do you guys who work in hot locations have this much trouble with starting hot saws? What is the solution? Do you know of any chainsaw models that tend to have this problem more than others, or is it pretty much with any? The only thing that comes to mind is trying 100% gas 93 octane, and add a little diesel to hopefully increase the boiling point.
    16 replies | 664 view(s)
  • Nutball's Avatar
    3 Weeks Ago
    Did Husqvarna make them? That wasn't even broken in yet, it looked like 30 seconds through pine with 24" bar. Comparing to my 2188 which maybe on it's 5th tank of gas was cutting around 24"oak with 20" bar in just over 20 seconds, so they seem pretty close.
    38 replies | 1242 view(s)
  • Nutball's Avatar
    3 Weeks Ago
    I don't know about the dolmar, but my 2188 had almost all I wanted which is why I got it: Husqvarna 390 at a discount, outer rim sprocket, good power to weight ratio, I like the 3 setting oiler which does about either 1/3, 2/3, or >1 tank oil per tank of gas. Only down sides are parts availability, I wish it had an upgrade filter like the 372, bigger spikes would be nice, and it had trouble keeping a 42" bar oiled well, I'd say 32" max for decent oiling. I'd also like to see more heatsink surface area, it gets pretty hot, and the exhaust blows right up the handle which about burns my hand. I'm very happy with my 2188 and Echo 271t setup. The only thing that would be better is if they were ported and had light weight bars. I'd quickly get another 2188, I gave up a good 660 I had to get mine.
    38 replies | 1242 view(s)
  • Nutball's Avatar
    4 Weeks Ago
    I use Oregon files on all chains since I can find a good deal on a dozen box of them. I'll use definitely two new files on a 20" stihl chain that hits rock and needs 10-15 strokes of the file to get back to good material. I do it to maintain even sharpening, and it does eat up half the life of each file. I put them back in the box the other end up and will get back to them when I make it through the rest. I'm pretty quick at swapping chains since I do it so much, I do it to use the big bar for big wood only, then back to the little one to not wear out the big unnecessarily, or to switch chains for speed cutting or safe plunge cutting. It takes me a very long time to file even when I go fast compared to the time it takes to swap a chain. I don't go through chains fast enough to even think ahead by 10 chains let alone 50. I asked Frawley's saw shop about carrying Stihl chain, they said they'd look into it, so hopefully good deals come of that.
    33 replies | 1228 view(s)
  • Nutball's Avatar
    4 Weeks Ago
    I don't need to go buy a bunch of chain tools at this point, if I could afford it, then I'd just pay whatever chain costs. The next option would be for me to find a spool for a good price and hope someone local doesn't charge much to make the loops, but the only place I know spins rivets doesn't spin them down far enough, so they look like a cracked mushroom that I have to hammer the sides down on, so they don't dig into the wood as bad.
    33 replies | 1228 view(s)
  • Nutball's Avatar
    4 Weeks Ago
    Nutball replied to a thread MS 200t problems in Chainsaws!
    There is some play on this saw, I don't know if it is enough to worry about. I can definitely pull the shaft back and forth, but when comparing to a ruler, at most there is a 1/3mm of movement if even that much, it's hard to tell, but nowhere near half a mm. To compare an old 290 and Husqvarna 455 both have absolutely no shaft movement, that or they are too hard to slide through the bearings.
    42 replies | 1272 view(s)
  • Nutball's Avatar
    4 Weeks Ago
    I know Bailey's has been off of my list of places to buy from unless I can't find something anywhere else because they are always more expensive. Their loops are a good bit more than some ebay sellers who sell at $0.30-0.33 per DL, and that's with ebay fees and paypal fees. Bailey's didn't have my size, their custom loops are $0.43/DL, their 100ft is about $0.31 before shipping and buying loop making tools. I'm sure a dealer could still make plenty of money not selling on ebay at $0.30/DL from multi chain orders.
    33 replies | 1228 view(s)
  • Nutball's Avatar
    4 Weeks Ago
    I got an old chinese junk chain I might try hardening, it is so soft you can't file it, the file just glides over the teeth sculpting them like clay, so there's a big curved lip bent over the cutting edge. I just don't know if Oregon chain could be made harder than it is, or if it softens as it gets used. I'll use softer chain if there's clean wood to be cut, but definitely not for a stump.
    33 replies | 1228 view(s)
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Mt. Juliet, TN
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Tree removal

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