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  • Gypo's Avatar
    4 Days Ago
    Gypo replied to a thread Km III for lanyard? in Gear Forum
    Exactly my intended use B. Only I run 3/4 steel core for flipper. Much easier on hands if your climbing on spurs all day. Try one if ya get a chance, I had 5/8 before and much prefer the 3/4. I too run the petzl adjuster. Thanks for the info on the kmIII. Sounds like you and I both like the thicker cordage for lanyards. I have a CE lanyard and love the concept, but its too thin and hurts me hands. ; )
    16 replies | 425 view(s)
  • Gypo's Avatar
    1 Week Ago
    Gypo replied to a thread Km III for lanyard? in Gear Forum
    Thank you all for your input. I should have mentioned I was thinking about the 1/2" kmIII. I will give 5he tritech a look. Thanks. Zane
    16 replies | 425 view(s)
  • Gypo's Avatar
    1 Week Ago
    Gypo started a thread Km III for lanyard? in Gear Forum
    Often after reaching my tip and wanting to advance up the tree I use a long lanyard as a second climb line. I like at least 20'. I have been using 16 strand for its abrasion resistance, since its being natural crotched. It works fine, but then I read somewhere that km III is stiffer, which I also like when flipping up big conifers. (For years logging all I used was a 18' x 3/4 steel core, much easier on hands when on spurs for hours.) How will kmIII last when used like this? Natural crotches and fir bark can be hard on rope. Should I try it or just by more 16 strand? Thanks. Zane
    16 replies | 425 view(s)
  • Gypo's Avatar
    2 Weeks Ago
    Gypo replied to a thread Toggle Knot Development in Gear Forum
    Good idea Nick. We use toggle like this regularly in skyline logging. There is a toggle attached to the end of the drop line. The rings are on the end of the chokers opposite end of the nubbins and bells. This makes it easy to take chokers on and off the line. In tree work it would be like having a toggle on the end of your rigging line, and rings on your loop runners. You can put as many loop runners on the line as you need, and take them off when you dont. I definitely think 1/2" is the place to start. I think it would also be nice to have the toggle be removable. Shackle between toggle and rope seems the easiest to me, that or a big enough eye in the toggle that it can be girth hitched.
    24 replies | 481 view(s)
  • Gypo's Avatar
    2 Weeks Ago
    Thanks for doing this Nick. Very interested in your results. Would also be greatful for any thought on what you might find an acceptable substitute. You certainly have more knowlege of rope composition than I do. Thanks. Zane
    4 replies | 210 view(s)
  • Gypo's Avatar
    3 Weeks Ago
    Gypo replied to a thread Bridge rope for treemotion in Gear Forum
    Thanks a bunch fellas. Just ordered some 10mm htp and 10mm ocean. Some of those big maples you've done in your videos look just like the ones down here. Some of the timber down here is nicer than others, we have some real shit patches at times. Makes you appreciate the good stuff.
    6 replies | 139 view(s)
  • Gypo's Avatar
    3 Weeks Ago
    Gypo replied to a thread Bridge rope for treemotion in Gear Forum
    So, a static rope is the way to go? Never had one, how is the knotability? Need those stopper knots in the end... Btw Grendel, I enjoy your vidoes very much. We work in simular environments.
    6 replies | 139 view(s)
  • Gypo's Avatar
    3 Weeks Ago
    I have searched extensively and not found the info Im looking for. I have a treemotion that I want to setup with an adjustable bridge. Ive got a ct roll n lock and some new velocity. The problem is that the velocity fit throught the lower d rings is pretty tight so it doesnt adjust very well. It takes two hands. I was thinking that if there was a 10mm alternative rope that it would feed through the lower dees much better. I would use the treemotion bridge but it isn't long enough. Velocity will work, just not as good as I would like. Anyone know of a good 10mm bridge material? Thanks all. Zane
    6 replies | 139 view(s)
  • Gypo's Avatar
    4 Weeks Ago
    Gypo replied to a thread August Hunicke Videos in MBTV
    Well, Im not one of those guys, but I am in the pnw. :) We wear watershed goretex cutting timber. Light, and not as hot as a lot of other gear. I like the durability too, YMMV. Good work August, as usual. Good to see Im not the only one working in the rain.
    2651 replies | 125883 view(s)
  • Gypo's Avatar
    11-20-2016
    There are a lot of mechanized sides here too. I'd say its about half and half. Most of the mechanized stuff is done during the summer here when its dry. Cable (yarder) logging goes year round. This unit had some nice trees, but we often cut timber that is smaller, and sometimes significantly bigger. Spent a summer cutting in Alaska too. The timber up there is bigger, but most of it wasnt very good stuff.
    16 replies | 525 view(s)
  • Gypo's Avatar
    11-10-2016
    We tripped most of it. Had to take a run off anything over 24". They were yarding it up the hill with a Thunderbird yarder. Standing skyline and an Acme carriage.
    16 replies | 525 view(s)
  • Gypo's Avatar
    11-06-2016
    Yup. Belong to a large timber company. Thanks for the fix MB. You da man!
    16 replies | 525 view(s)
  • Gypo's Avatar
    11-06-2016
    Heres a video I made of me and my partner last spring. Just realized I never showed you folks. <iframe width="560" height="315" src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/YVOoqEE9Uus" frameborder="0" allowfullscreen></iframe>
    16 replies | 525 view(s)
  • Gypo's Avatar
    11-06-2016
    Its fine. Sometimes this can happen when a saw has been sitting for awhile. I think one cause is sawdust, oil, and other gunk build up between the clutch and rim. If you hammer the throttle and then hit the chain brake most times it will remove the gunk. If it does it continuously even after warm up its a bad clutch spring.
    5 replies | 219 view(s)
  • Gypo's Avatar
    01-31-2016
    The guy I'm subbing for has his buncher in one of the units we're cutting right now. They get to cut all the flat ground that they can get to. They definitely get a lot done. I'm hoping to get some good gopro footage of both the buncher and the yarder and shovel sides that are in there before we're done. I've got a friend with a drone who has volunteered to get some video too. The weather has been too foggy and rainy lately to fly. Should be some decent viewing if we ever get it done.
    51 replies | 2481 view(s)
  • Gypo's Avatar
    01-28-2016
    Gypo replied to a thread Clearcutting in Tree Felling and Rigging
    I see your point about the outside dawg. Fortunately I rarely have to saw a stump off, especially one with flutes or flair.
    20 replies | 1018 view(s)
  • Gypo's Avatar
    01-28-2016
    Gypo replied to a thread Clearcutting in Tree Felling and Rigging
    It is my opinion that outside dawgs are not needed. One is good, two is redundant. What does it really do you for you? I do leave them on my big saw, but that's the exception. The bars are lighter than your standard Oregon bar. The steel is also harder, which means less dressing and longer life. The white spots you see on the bars are actually plastic of some kind. Yes it is possible to swing a tree 180 degrees. Its all about momentum. Its far easier to swing one 120 degrees however, and you better have a wedge handy in case you need to wedge it over onto your kicker or Dutchman, to start the tree around. The first thing you have to know though is where the tree actually leans, this is the part I see most people fail. My opinion- I see a lot of posts here about kickers, Dutchmen, Coos Bay cuts, etc. While it is fun to talk about, I don't see the need for "trick" cuts in treework around buildings or other liabilities. When I cut around houses we straight fall, wedge, or most times pull, everything. I wouldn't dream of swinging a tree over a house when I can put a line in it. IMO these types of cuts are to save work in an area where shit going wrong won't hurt anything but your ego. YMMV
    20 replies | 1018 view(s)
  • Gypo's Avatar
    01-28-2016
    Gypo replied to a thread Clearcutting in Tree Felling and Rigging
    New 390's come with a blue coil that limits saw rpms. I have a few older black coils around from older saws, the black coils are unlimited. I have heard that you can buy the black coils again, but don't know first hand. I also removed all the stops on the carb adjustment screws, and took off the outside dawg. I shake my head everytime I buy a new saw and get to work on it before it will run how it should. Note- Here in Oregon in the summer time these mods are illegal due to fire danger, so I have to remove them ie. put stock muffler and ignition back on. The bars we got from a local source, a guy who knows a guy thing. This source seems to have dried up... I do see that treestuff seems to be stocking them now though. Oh, and on the trees that lean back. There are always a few. These we usually just swing, or often push. Wedging is usually last choice because it's a lot of work and energy, but sometimes it is necessary. I've even been known to cut a hole out above a tree that leans back really hard and then fall it up the hill.
    20 replies | 1018 view(s)
  • Gypo's Avatar
    01-28-2016
    Gypo replied to a thread The Logging Thread in The Logging Forum
    Interesting use of the nylon. Most guys I've seen out here just double up their wedges. In rare cases we use a chunk of wood we call a "glut." Same as your nylon except sawed from a handy chunk of wood. I see you're using a maul (it looks like) to drive wedges, so I'm assuming that wooden gluts would not hold up and hence the nylon? Interesting to see how things are done differently in different areas. Thanks for posting.
    469 replies | 26585 view(s)
  • Gypo's Avatar
    01-28-2016
    Gypo replied to a thread Clearcutting in Tree Felling and Rigging
    I haven't counted the rings, but I'd guess age around 50. Fifty years ago a lot of the timber was not replanted and so was natural regen. I don't know for sure that is the case in this stand, but from the abundance of maple would guess it was not planted. This 390 is stock, except for the muffler port and an unlimited coil and carb. I did these myself. Partners 660 was modded by a local guy in Florence. Its got muffler ports and was hopped up.
    20 replies | 1018 view(s)
  • Gypo's Avatar
    01-27-2016
    Gypo replied to a thread Clearcutting in Tree Felling and Rigging
    Sorry bout the double post, got it figured out now. Turns out I sometimes can't follow directions... on how to post properly.
    20 replies | 1018 view(s)
  • Gypo's Avatar
    01-27-2016
    <iframe width="560" height="315" src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/YVOoqEE9Uus" frameborder="0" allowfullscreen></iframe> My partner and I in a decent stand of second growth.
    20 replies | 1018 view(s)
  • Gypo's Avatar
    01-21-2016
    I cut timber in oregon. Rarely see a cutter wearing eye protection. You need to be able to see fine detail up above you and wearing eye protection hinders that. Sweat and rain make it worse. My opinion that not being able to see fine detail is more hazardous than getting sawdust in my eyes. Ymmv.
    5829 replies | 340131 view(s)
  • Gypo's Avatar
    04-19-2015
    Gypo replied to a thread Time for a bigger saw in Chainsaws!
    My 576 is the smoothest saw I have ever run. I buy all my saws with full wraps if they are available. Its a west coast thing. :)
    68 replies | 4448 view(s)
  • Gypo's Avatar
    04-17-2015
    Gypo replied to a thread Time for a bigger saw in Chainsaws!
    Grendel nailed it. 390 and 562? Theyre not even close. One has 60cc and the other has 88. The 562 is way smoother imo.
    68 replies | 4448 view(s)
  • Gypo's Avatar
    04-17-2015
    Yeah. Gettin the muffler off is a major pain. You have to pull the carb and most everything else. Taking some good pics of the carb linkage before you start helps.
    29 replies | 1580 view(s)
  • Gypo's Avatar
    04-15-2015
    Gypo replied to a thread Time for a bigger saw in Chainsaws!
    All the fallers around here that run stihls are running 461 or 661's, for what its worth. Im a timber faller and run a saw six hours a day and I run huskies. I do some climbing jobs as well so I pretty much own em all from a 562 to a 3120. If I could only have one it would be a 390. Next would be a 576... and mines the autotune.
    68 replies | 4448 view(s)
  • Gypo's Avatar
    04-15-2015
    I just augered out the stock hole as big as i could under the flap. I cut the flap and folded it back, ground everything underneath it out, as well as much baffle as I could reach throught that hole, then folded the flap back down and welded it. Mine has about 30 hrs on it is all, and no problems so far. Mine does not sound lean... but I cut timber everyday and like a saw as lean as possible without being too lean... and I run sharp chains. Dull chqin kills pro saws.
    29 replies | 1580 view(s)
  • Gypo's Avatar
    04-10-2015
    I was running a michuacan (sp) I think... I usually do. The dawgs I fabbed up off some stihl 362 dawgs. The stockers didnt bite as good as I wanted em too. This 540 is just muffler modded. The bar is the husky techlite or whatever its called that comes with em, and yeah its a 16.
    29 replies | 1580 view(s)
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About Gypo

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About Gypo
Biography:
I'm in my mid 30's. Been a contract timber faller in the Pacific Northwest since graduation from college. Have done several conifer removals around homes, but always used simple lanyard techniques in order to lower limbs and hang tag lines for pulling. Just getting into the more advanced methods of arborists.

Have recently purchased a new saddle (TM) as well as some poison Ivy and hitch climbers. Been playing with the new gear on some of the old mans big oak trees and am loving the accessability these methods provide.

As a side, I also spent a summer topping doug firs for bird habitat.
Location:
Western Oregon
Interests:
Hunting, Steelhead Fishing, Trapping
Occupation:
Self-Employed Contract Timber Cutter

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