1 Day Ago
This is one point where hardwoods differ a bit from conifers.
Hardwoods as in "HARD" woods, that is.
The wood doesn't compress much over and under the wedge, so you don't need to pound a lot on your wedges, before cutting to the hinge.
They will hold the tree anyway, unless we are talking extreme backlean.
In the woods, I don't deal with extreme back lean. I simply decide that it must be God's will that the tree goes with the lean, otherwise why did he/she/it create it with so much lean.
So I either fall it with the lean or leave it be.
Hence my preferred method is to start the backcut, set as many wedges as I deem necessary and finish the cut.
Then pound wedges. As Sean wrote, no use in fighting against a thick hinge when you are trying to wedge a tree over, that energy is better spent elsewhere.
Again, I realize I'm thinking like the production faller that I am, always cutting to scale.
EVERY advantage gained shows in the paycheck.
They may only be little things, but over a season they add up.
I can see checking your bar tip if you are running a 60" bar, but on a 24", no way.
Burnham, have you ever felled a tree with leaves;)